Live rock noobie

After reading several threads , I have a few question for you.

1-There's no point in cycling a tank without purchasing the live rock first , right ?

2- is there a difference between Fiji and other kinds of LR or are a
they all the same ? What's all the hype about Fiji ?

3- is there a rule of thumb for how much LR is needed per gallon ?

4- is it better to buy online or at my local stores in the Chicagoland area ?

5- will my local stores tell me if the LR is cured or not ? Or will they not know what the he'll I'm talking about?

6- I don't need lights , I don't need skimmer for my cycle, right ? Anything else I need to add before starting my cycle ? Salt obviously, what else ?

7- I have canister filters that I used for freshwater , should I let them run during the cycle to allow bacteria to colonize on the sponges in one of the chambers?

I know it's alot of questions , some stupid , but I'm a total noobie to saltwater and want to get everything right the first time before wasting 6weeks cycling for nothing. Any help on any of the questions would be appreciated

Thanks everyone !!!!!
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1) Wrong, their is a point, since the benefical bacteria and other life forms associated with the rock will help to break down nitrogen forms and nutrients, however, live sand or even dry rock will eventually become seeded and become alive teeming with life. Uncured rock is better for the cycling stage due to dead and decaying matter being decompossed and starting the cycle(ammonia step).

2)YES! Fiji comes from the Fiji Islands, just like Marshall Islands live rock comes from the Marshall Islands and so on! Their is a diverse array of animals, bacteria and other lifeforms that are often endemic to that particular region and found no where else. Fiji rock tends to be more rock shaped where as Marshall Islands rock tends to be more stick like. Live rock is basically coral that has since died and has been recycled with a plethora of diverse bacteria, animals and algae.

3)Throw out the rule of thumb formula. The reasons for this are: Rock varies in weight due to porosity and species of coral the rock is made of(calcareous skeleton weight). All things being the same, two equal sized rocks could have a significant difference in weight, hence the weight issue is not very relevant. You could have a 10 gallon tank with 3 pounds of rock being 1 piece of rock or enough to fill your whole tank.
Next comes the issue of space, not only for corals but fish as well. Depending on the amount of livestock and species, you may not want to have too much rock.

4) Depends! Often times you can pick what pieces of rock you want and actually see it in person at your local pet shop, and if you are a regular you may be able to get a great deal as well. Having it shipped is often expensive due to shipping costs and you can't pick out or see what you are getting. Die off is also a scenario that is something you have to deal with. Sometimes you can get a deal through online venues as well though.

5)They should!!!! If they give you a false answer, then it wouldn't be my local pet shop anymore!! If they don't know what you are talking about, then they shouldn't be working at the pet shop in the saltwater area either!

6) This question scares me! How can I answer this question without you taking offense... Starting a new tank and cycling a tank is a big step in the development of any fish tank. It is also one of the first concepts dealt with in any good book on the saltwater hobby, along with equipment(tank, stand etc.). I just hope that you have taken the time to research and enlighten yourself of this and other key components that will increase your success in the hobby and that of your livestock. Do you have the necessary equipment(heater etc.)? What water are you using to fill your tank and for water changes ONCE you TANK has CYCLED COMPLETELY? Very Important!

You need something to start your cycle(dead/decaying matter or a hardy fish like a damsel. Test kits to follow the progress of your cycle. I would use the skimmer, you don't need lights(true) though to view the inhabitants in your tank you may want lights.
Do you not have lights or a skimmer?

7) I would remove the sponges since they tend to get dirty quickly. This causes a nitrate trap and reduced water flow as the sponge becomes clogged. A prompt cleaning regime would also have to be employed because of this if you did use the sponges. The bacteria part is good and a cannsiter filter may be used, but I would add rock to the cannister and/or use the cannister to house carbon or other resins used to reduce nitrates and phosphates, especially.
Good luck with the tank!

 

thanks for the detailed response. I been in freshwater hobby for a few years now. So , im slowly switching to saltwater as i continue researching. After little research, Ive been convinced to buy a RODI unit and i just filled the tank up with ro water. Now im awaiting responses as to do what next. I was going to buy salt and start the Ncycle by using ammonia clear (no perfumes) that can be purchased at your local ace hadware.I should have LS or some LR during the Ncycle so I can have beneficial bacteria gather in them, correct?


I do have a heater, freshwater flourescent lighting, heater, prime dechlorinator, and a saltwater test kit. I don't have a buddy with a saltwater tank so cycling the tank may take a long time, but I'm in no rush. Skimmer and lighting have not been purchased because i didn't think they are needed until after the cycle. Lighting I am looking at the Hamilton Belize Sun MH fixture. For the skimmer, I'm eyeing the Octopus 2000. I don't have a sump and not interested in getting a sump. I've had them before and overflowing concerns, media clogging, evaporation issues, etc. are all I've experienced. I have several canister filters that I've acquired over the years for my freshwater setups. If they are useless for saltwater, I will go with a sump/overflow if you convince me enough.

Don't worry, no offense taken. I'm learning.

 

I would go ahead and add your salt to the tank and get the salinity and temp where it needs to be. I wouldn't worry about the cycle until after you have sand and rock in the tank for your beneficial bacteria to grow on.

As far as a sump goes I would bet that the majority of people not running a sump wish that they had the ability or space to have one. I would say get some good designs and ideas on sumps and include it if you have the space. There are just to many benefits from running one vs not imho. Also if your using rodi water you wont need the dechlorinator.