Low PH

Ph can be affected by higher temps, water temps. In my opinion your temp is pushing the upper limit. I would suggest a computer fan or something of the sort blowing across the display water surface or into the sump to bring the water temp to no higher than 80 degrees.

 

I have a chiller, I am keeping the temp up to assist with the suspected Ich issue. Suggestions say 84* but I am not comfortable with a temp that high. Using a Ich treatment at this time.

 

PH usually drops naturally when the lights are off. Having your water surface turbulent will keep it stable when the lights are off.

 

For the Ich issue, try Marine-Max by Tropical Science, it works and is all natural.

 

I looked up Marine-Max and found this,
"Green-X is almost reef safe - shrimp suffer or die - but it is an alternative for parasites"
As I have a cleaner shrimp in the tank (added today) its not a good option for me at this time. If I have the Ich problem persist I will try it after removing my shrimp.

I got a Mag test kit and some powered Mag from my favorite LFS (40 Min drive). I was told that if my mag was low then it tends to take the PH with it. Unreal how one thing can effect so many others. My Mag level was between 900 and a 1000. Added some to the tank and will check it again in the AM.

 

Green-X is not MarineMax.

Here's a pic so you know what we are talking about. I too swear by this stuff.

 

Yes, thanks reeron, Raimond, here is a link; Tropical Science Biolabs - Makers of Nitromax

 

Thanks Reeron and UncleJed,
I guess I read the review incorrectly. This stuff sounds great, gotta find some. It sounds like a good maintenance additive, dip solution as well as a treatment product.

My Mag was up to 1100 this AM, by tomorrow it should be where it needs to be.

Ordered a bottle from Amazon should be here next week.

 

pH fluctuates through the day. The net consumption of carbon dioxide during the daylight hours, leads to some aquariums to become deficient in CO2 during the day, and the pH rises.If you are having dramatic fluctuations you can aerate the aquarium water to degass excess carbon dioxide.

I try to stay away from dkH buffers as most people tend to use it too aggressively and end up making changes in the water chemistry in their tanks too quickly (in my opinion). I generally like to a change in the water chemistry happen very slowly over time. Usually a tank that has a lower dkH than desired took some time to get down there, it usually didn’t happen overnight. Conversely, it’s also not optimum to have it raised to the desired level over night. You can try stronger aeration in the aquarium water to degass excess carbon dioxide. For a permanent fix, I dose my tank with Tropic Marin Bio-Calcium which will very slowly, over time, raise the dkH to the desired level which prevents pH swings in the long term. Using a salt with a naturally higher buffering capacity may also help too.

 

Thanks for the input.

My Mag is now above 1250 and my KH is 9 but my PH is always 7.9 to 8.0 no matter what time of the day I check it. I have a turbulent surface, lots of bubbles, 2 air stones in the sump, return lines create lots of bubbles in the filter socks and the top off the DT with a fan blowing on the tank from the front door. A/C has been off for 2 days as the temps are down for the week. Tank temp is now 77 as the Ich is loosing its fight for control of the tank.
I have not dosed any KW or buffering products in the last 5 days. Just Mag and Cal.
AM =0
NR = 0
NT = 40
Cal = 440
I do 10G PWC every other day for the Ich situation. My salt is instant ocean and I circulate my new water at least 24 hours before using it.
At a loss for a solution.