Metal Halide Help please

Hey guys, everyone's been so helpful with all my questions so far. I got another one now. Here's the deal. I got a metal halide ballast(m58 i believe) and reflector off ebay. Here's the link eBay: 250 watt METAL HALIDE SUPER REEF AQUARIUM LIGHT BLUE (item 140040367069 end time Oct-11-06 20:51:54 PDT)

Now my problem is with the bulb. I'm not sure if its compatible with the ballast, I've asked questions of the seller, and have been a little helpful but not much so I came here. The bulb took over 10min to start the 1st time. the 2nd time it started up right away(ran for 3 hrs). but now it wont light up. Below is a pic of the bulb...any info anyone can give on the bulb is greatly appreciated



the writing on the bulb in-case you cannot read it is HIT-DE 250w/14000k

Thanks for all the help

Rob

 

M58's are 250W Probe Starts (vs. Pulse, Iwasaki, or HQI). Here's a good ANSI code web page for future reference. Aquarium-Lighting-Guide.com - Metal Halide, Fluorescent, Compact Fluorescent, VHO, T5

I'm confused by the writing on your bulb. DE typically means a double-ended bulb and your picture shows a socket bulb. Hopefully someone else can help you further.

 

you definitely have a SE (single ended) bulb and you've obviously mentioned it's a 250w, so....as inwall75 mentioned a M58 should be the right match. however, i did look up the bulb that you have and it seems it's a german brand but due to translation, i wasn't able to get much more than that. did you check the filaments in the bulb? does it look like you might have a disconnection? your best bet might be to research the ballast and purchase a new bulb accordingly...it would also be the cheapest route.

hope that helps,
jonathan

 

Well the only 14K SE bulb I know of is a Hamiton and it's a Probe start. So I'm not sure. Unless your ballast is pulse and not actually a M58 but a M138.

I agree with Jonathan open up the ballast and see if you can research the Ballast.

J

 

So if I open up the ballast housing I should be able to find out more info? What should I be looking for? will there be a diagram/description inside? The outside of the ballast has a diagram and info stuck to it. The sticker says its a:

LUMARK 250w MH M58

Its a used housing, do you think that the "guts" of it may be different?


Rob

 

You can just change the capacitor. I had the same problem when USHIO went to this starting method a few yrs ago.. Or you can get a hard start kit like is used on Compressors and motors. If interested i Can post the info for you tomorrow and where you can get the electronic hard starts kits about 12.00 ea. I just use a 30.00 M/H transformer for my M/H and VHO's also. What MFU rating is on the capacitors ? maybe a 5 mfu you can go to a 7.5 with no problems that will also do it if they are a 7.5 jump to a 10 mfu starting capacitor. But if you keep trying to start them with what you have you will burn it out from lack of starting voltage. If it is not burned already ?

 

After opening the housing of the ballast, there was a faded diagram on the side. Here is what I could read.

CW Autotransformer by ADVANCE p/n 71a5780
For (1) 250w M58 or H37 LAMP

As for the capacitor i couldnt really read everything on it, theres a metal strap holding it down and i don't have a wrench that will get to the nuts to remove it. But heres what I could read off it: Made by GE serial # Z 97F6602RC
15uf 90c +03 -03%
400VAC 50/60Hz


Tangster.... yea that would be great. Any info is greatly appreciated. When you say "burn out" are you referring to the capicator or the bulb?


Rob

 

OK my 2 cents... The bulb part number you posted is for a european bulb. Most of those types of bulbs (not all) require a pulse start ballast. This ballast differs from a magnetic m58 ballast (what you have) because it has a starting circuit that fires the bulb at a higher voltage. Sometimes you can ge this type of bulb to run on a standard magnetic ballast but over time you will burn the starting filament out of the bulb and then it will not light at all.
As for the physical differences in the different types of ballast I am not sure if you can add a different capacitor or not to make it work like a pulse start. Until I see a wiring schematic I will defer that to someone else who already knows

Jim

 

Ok update time....

As far as the bulb # yes I know thats an european model, but the way the bulb is set up compares to diagrams I've seen of a probe start bulb. So all this is very confusing.
Arc Tubes


But i was suggested that I try prying up the metal encap in the buttom of the mogul socket. As it may have been bent down too far and good contact was not being made.

After doing that...the bulb did not light, but then I decided to mess with it while it was in the socket. As it turns out, after I twisted the bulb some, It LIT!

Was this the problem the whole time???? I hope it was that simple. But won't know till the next time I turn on the ballast.

Will keep you posted(read: will ask more questions later) Thanks so much


Rob

 

congrats....