Metal stand for 220G

I built this one for a friend. The frame is all 1.5" square tubing with gussets in the corners for lateral strength and powder coated. I had the welder place L brackets in strategic locations which I then used hidden carriage bolts behind the trim pieces and wing nuts to hold the skin on.
Custom 220G Lee Mar Reef For Sale (again) - Reef Central Online Community




I believe if you look back far enough on RC you will find the complete build still.

 

You could go aluminum, easily, and probably for about the same cost as having a steel stand build and powder coated.

check out the erector set below:
80/20® Inc. - The Industrial Erector Set®

 

Aluminum and saltwater do not go well together. It will pit, discolor and corrode just from the salt spray and dampness. Powdercoat is you best friend.

 

I wouldn't use anything other than zinc coated steel or stainless steel under a saltwater tank. This is coming from someone who designs steel telecommuncations towers and can see what saltwater can do to steel. Aluminum is a terrible idea. As has been stated by AZ do not put saltwater and aluminum together. If you would Like let me know what you are thinking of, and I can make sure it would work. I aslo recommend trying to find zinc coated fasteners.

If you want the stand to be light I suggest using cross bracing wherever possible. Cross as in a lot of triangles. Think bridge trusses and such. These will be the strongest. If you just do intersecting pieces like a typically wood stand there will be induced moments in the stand and it will strain over time.

 

Hi Jason, I saw your post on Canreef. I think we are getting a stand made by the same metal fabricator (Blake)! I talked to the Grizz about my stand (80"x24"x36"), and he gave me some advice. Here is my rendering... 1.5" steel, 0.188" wall, powder coated.



I also plan on having hinges welded on and leveling feet drilled into the bottom.

 

Thanks Jake, WOW maybe he can just do 2 at the same time

 

Add some gussets in the corners for lateral and front to back strength. I would not put levelling feet on it unless you are setting it on a solid concrete floor. It will cause point source loading or concentrate all the weight on those 4 or 6 little points rather than spread it over the entire surface evenly. For levelling I use wooden shims if need be and in drastic cases have ripped long tapered shims from a 2x4 or 2x6 3 or 4 feet long or longer so the weight is distributed along the entire length. I place the tank on the stand in its permanent location then fill it up only a couple inches to check level. That way it has some weight on it and settles in but is not so heavy you can't lever it up or around if need be. Once level I fill it on up.

 

Have you ever heard of an aluminum boats? Do you know what material outboard motors are made from? Steel does no better without protection against saltwater.

You guys....

 

Think I'm just going to build a wood stand. I'm nmore familiar and it's more cost effectiv
Thanks al
J

 

You won't leave an aluminum boat in saltwater for long or you won't have much left to pull out of the water. Have you ever seen someone try an aluminum heater in saltwater? You also don't see much aluminum hardware on sea going boats either, it is not kind to aluminum.