My 65 reef build, updated 9/6 NEW PICS

Discussion in 'I made this!' started by droopymatt, Jul 31, 2011.

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  1. droopymatt

    droopymatt Bristle Worm

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    Newton, KS
    Hi 3reefers, my name is Matt, ive been reading these forums for about a year and decided to try my own build based on what I see on here so this is what I've come up with so far (not too good at the forums so if I'm doing something wrong or I'm not sharing the right info just lemme know ;D)

    The tank is a 36x18x24 65g, I got it used on a barter and it had been a cichlid tank for ten years. Five months ago I decided it would go saltwater so i drained it stripped it of all the old silicone and basically took it down to just glass. Heres what she looked like before this all started
     

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    Last edited: Sep 6, 2011
  2. Click Here!

  3. droopymatt

    droopymatt Bristle Worm

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    So after I got it all cleaned out and stripped, i drilled three holes for the overflow and one for the return, and painted the back black...I also replaces the top and bottom frames, they were oak color and i wanted black plus the top frame was all messed up anyway
     

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  4. droopymatt

    droopymatt Bristle Worm

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    Im doing a bean overflow, i built a coast to coast overflow out of quarter inch acrylic but its clear and hard to photo, not sure if i should paint it black before i glue it in, any thoughts.
     
  5. droopymatt

    droopymatt Bristle Worm

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    so then i started the stand, this was my first real experience in wood working but i thin it went well
     

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  6. Corailline

    Corailline Super Moderator

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    It is a dry heat, yeah right !
    Looks like you are doing a great job, the tank looks almost new in the cleaned up images.

    What are your lighting plans for the tank?
     
  7. droopymatt

    droopymatt Bristle Worm

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    I used a tall 20 gallon and built my own sump/refugium , I also built in an area to be the electrical area...thats where ill keep all my ballasts, timers, power strips etc etc etc ;D, im going to drill the sump so that i can keep the return pump heat out of the tank....
     

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  8. Click Here!

  9. Pennstatereefer

    Pennstatereefer Feather Duster

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    Great start! Wish you the best of luck.
     
  10. droopymatt

    droopymatt Bristle Worm

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    Newton, KS

    I'm working on an LED build, but ive been so scatter brained working on the stand and sump i havent even opend the box from rapid LED.

    What ive got is the Ultra premium 36 with dimmable drivers, havent decided on heat sinks or mounting yet, also looking for someone with experience with dimming controls ie reef controller vs manual knobs and such
     
  11. droopymatt

    droopymatt Bristle Worm

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    Thank you!
     
  12. insanespain

    insanespain Ocellaris Clown

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    AHH yes, another 65 gallon. Welcome to the forum!

    Check out my 65 gallon DIY build here http://www.3reef.com/forums/i-made/diy-65-gallon-reef-tank-build-pics-110234.html

    First off, I would've built the overflow box out of 1/4 inch glass. Acrylic does not bond to glass very well.

    Congrats on the 36 rapid kit. Exactly what I plan on doing for mine. Should be fine for most corals unless you plan on going FULL SPS, then a 48 kit might be a better choice.

    As far as dimming, there are alot of different options. The manual option isnt a bad way to go. It consists of a 10 volt power pack running through a pot and then into the dimming input of the driver. Works well. If you want automated dimming for dusk/dawn effects, then you would use one of the name brand reef controllers connected to the dimming input of the driver. This dictates which meanwell driver you buy. The "D" drivers or the "P" drivers. P standing for PWM (pulse width modulation), which is what the controllers will deliver to the driver. Since you already have your rapid kit, we need to know which drivers you have to recommend which route you go.