Need help improving my tank.

whoa there big fella, I never said halides are the ends all of lighting- just very very good at what they do, and usually work better then other options when space is of concern.

I just built a 6 bulb t-5 canopy for my 45 gallon show tank- it's briming with coral. I used 2 bulbs @460nm, 2 bulbs @420nm, and 2 @6500k, however, I do prefer the shimmer one gets when using halides- it is more natural looking- IMHO

My set up replaced two 150 watt halides, and it works pretty good- 39w x 6 = 234 watts of energy used, a single 150 hallide done correctly produces about the same light output as 3-4 T5 bulbs (117/156 watts). However the halides produce twice the heat, have equal to lower cost when one considers bulb replacement, yet you have more color options w/T5, but greater PAR with halides- and like I said- the shimmering that really looks nice.

 

Two part is a system mixed up where two equal parts are put in for Ca and Alk once levels are where you want then. Corals take up Ca and Alk in equal parts.

Alk Ca and Mg are macro elements. Trace elements are just that trace. corals take up Alk/Ca andMG but nobady can say what consumption rate are for trace elements. that is why most dose dose them. Water changes are enough. You can't prove what is depleted, and you can prove if you have dosed too much.

A 2 part sytem is a big jug, so you can get two dosing pumps and dose automatically each day. Not too big of a deal if you are dosing small amounts. If you dose more it takes longer to get alk in, also if you do not like daily chores, or you are striving for stability... a good thing... then automate your dosing.

 

How do I go about doing that, Powerman? did you see what elements I use? can I do this with those? (btw I have the powder. not the liquid)

Where do I buy these pumps and what do I put them in? How should I go about figuring out my consumption rate of all 3 elements?

and also is the 2 part for cal and dkh alone then mag dose seperate? or does the two part maintain the mag as well. 9although my Reef Calcium says it maintains mag but i found that it doesnt provide mag.

 

If I had a windmill, I would consider halides but to me I just can't see paying a larger energy bill even in the smallest amount when I can achieve my goals with other options. as far as halides v.s. LEDs. I dont believe its a contest. I have a really nice LFS that has all these lighting options on display and taking away all other factors but looks, Corals look far better under LED's than even halides. There isn't even a close comparison to color rendition of LED's. Then add in the fact that LEDs have greater PAR than halides, Run on less energy, and dont require the cost in bulbs. To me LED's is the clear leader but you "true" halide guys will never admit to that. lol. but if energy cost had no part to play in all this, I would pick Halides with t5's only for supplement before I would t5's alone.

 

Think what you want- but to my knowledge no LED beats good halide- period. Esp. when true PAR comes into play.

Good LED needs a min. of 120 watts to equal a medicore 250 watt halide, then there is the initiial expense, and yes- heat using these types of LED is substantial, then there is long term usuage- nor can you change colors if the need arises, yes I want high power factor, low wattage HO lighting, but again, not at the expense of my critters, or the look of my system.

I am glad we came to a conclusion.

 

Ofcourse nothing beats halide when it comes to watts because of the damn energy required to keep them. The whole point of alternative lighting is to reduce the energy consumed. Thats like saying a gasoline car is always going to give you more miles than a hybrid car or a electric powered car. Well ofcourse it does. but the point is using more effcient energy and just the way cars are now being proven to run effciently with alternative energy. So is aquarium lighting. and its not a matter of what I say or what I think. It being done. PERIOD. all on this forum. all throughout LFS stores and experimental facilities.

also you dont need to change the color with LED fixtures. you can dial light spectrum you want without replacing bulbs every 2 seconds.. without replacing bulbs at all for that matter

there is this older gentlemen that has been in are mobile electronics shop for 30 years. When he started back in the 70's they didnt use drills with clutches to take interior screws apart. They did ever thing by hand. Us new school guys try to tell him that he is going to get carbel tunnel and that its bad for his hand but all he does is tell us why using a drill is bad. Where like ok will continue to advance with technology and you continue to be stubborn and develop ahtritis. You cant teach a dog new tricks even to save his life.

 

Well this is my opinion... other may have theirs.... Go to Bulk Reef Supply... learn them, live them, love them. For serious tank it is the most cost effective solution for chemicals and media... not to mention the fact that I actually trust their stuff, and they are pretty nice folks. Look into their two part system.... for your tank, the started pack would probably last 2 years.

Thats the chemical... next get two of their dosing pumps to automate. Now you need a timer or controller to do this. The pumps are relatively inexpensive, but there are other solutions. Bubble Magus has some dosing pumps and there are litermeters that have their own controller.

But you don't HAVE to automate. You would probably have pretty small doses... just something to consider.

I used BRS for alc, ca, mg, carbon, GFO... they have bio pellets now, food what ever. Set up an account... use it.

 

I dont have photos yet ut I have a low quality short video

YouTube - 012