NEED HELP Please-anyone using Marine Pinpoints PH Controller

If you have it by all means use it until you learn the reactor , Really these things are simple But you have to be very patient in between any adjustments . The last controller I sold to anyone I think it was like 120.00 or so ? I would use a Milwaukee rather then a Pin point just having used them all over many yrs I find the pin point are to damn finicky and hard to get a solid reading on I have a couple of them around here in a closet along with their ORP controllers as well .

But you set that controller to 6.4 and about 35 bubbles per min and let it go also you may be pushing to much effluent through it ? about 1/2 to 1. quart per hr will do most anyone I run about 1/2 qt. and my tank is full of SPS only and corallines and they consume more then the coral Ca runs at 430 to 450 and dkh of about 13 . More bubbles or lower reactor internal Ph equals more or higher DKH . Forget about the calcium readings you only worry about the DKH levels as I said thats what these animals are really the Calcium is just a by product . This is what screws most guys up as they think Ca. first .
You dial the DKH in the Ca will follow if use the proper media and they are all not alike the more expensive ones I find the be the most lacking I have used everything from Knoops to old oyster shells and dead coral chunks best I ever found is the A.R.M for day in and day out steady levels and ease of use .

Good luck

 

Currently my tank is dialed in rock solid using my reactor on a simple timer

KH 11
Ca 460

My Mg 1400
SG 1.025
PH 8.17
PO4 .02
No3 .01

Pretty stable good numbers-IMO

I just want to use the controller for a controller and not an over priced PH displaying unit;D

 

Run the effluent into a small cup with lid and set the Ph probe into that cup and set the controller for a ph of 6.4 on average then adjust it weekly until you are back where you are if it swings off any at all.

The only thing the controller does is when the Ph of the effluent raises above the set point the solenoid on the regulator opens or closes . If you have the controller calibrated correctly then its all on the controller to open and close off the CO2 as needed . Its that simple its not any more then that with or with out a probe holder . When I was using a controller I never used a holder that was even built in to the reactors I always used a cup with a lid and a drain hole to allow effluent to run into the sump and this allowed the CO2 rich water to drip , splash over some piled up rocks so that any co2 would be released . But for the last 10 plus yrs I use a degasser with a air pump and fine stone . The CO2 can cause you some problems if its not exchanged for 0'2 .


In a nuts shell calibrate the controller then set the controller to close off at 6.4 and open back up at 6.5 then let it run the probe and controller will do the rest . After a week check tank levels if the DKH is below where you want it lower the Ph cut in and out point 1 number like from the 6.4 /6.5 to 6.3 to 6.4 this increases the DKH levels , raising the set point will lower the DKH levels forget about Calcium and testing the effluent levels waste of time , The controller will control the Ph levels and this is what will control the richness of the effluent from the reactor and as mentioned Ca is just a free good benefit of the DKH reactor.

How long have you been running this reactor on this system ? what media are you using and the amount of effluent are you dripping per hr into the sump ?

 

Dialed in!!!

Roger you rock-LOL;D;D;D;D;D;D;D