Need Help with LED install - Typhon controller

Discussion in 'LED Aquarium Lighting' started by cj5_dude, Jul 20, 2013.

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  1. cj5_dude

    cj5_dude Flamingo Tongue

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    So I'm doing a Steve's LED retrofit in my 12 gallon JBJ cube. I got the one that was mostly complete so most of the hard work is done for me already. I also got the Typhon controller and that's where I'm getting hung up.

    Do I plug into the 5v or the 10v plugs? Second, I know where the positive leads plug into the drivers, but where does the negative go? All the way to the power supply where the other negatives are? This is the last step before I plug it all in so the sooner the better.
     
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  3. Biocube

    Biocube Giant Squid

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    No idea, but I would try using a voltmeter to test. My LEDs I hooked up via 10v system on my Apex module.
     
  4. reefmonkey

    reefmonkey Giant Squid

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    What type of drivers are you using to power your LED's?
     
  5. cj5_dude

    cj5_dude Flamingo Tongue

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    The drivers are what came with the system, so I don't know. The website has the following to say about the drivers...

    TECH SPECS-

    -Max # LEDs -7 LEDs (or combined LED voltage not exceeding 24.5V)

    -Type of driver - Bucking Linear

    -Max Current - 1000ma.

    -Max Voltage input - 25.0Vdc

    -Max Voltage output - 25.0Vdc

    -Minimum Voltage input - 13.0Vdc

    -Minimum Voltage output - 12.5Vdc

    -Maximum Efficiency - 96%

    -PCB - Extra heavy duty 2 oz copper

    -Lifespan - Every component that the driver is built with is rated for a minimum of 200,000 hours, or 23.5 years of continuous usage 24 hours per day.

    -To Obtain Max Efficiency - You must use an adjustable voltage power supply to obtain maximum efficiency and to guarantee that the driver is outputting the specified current rating.

    -Thermal Protection - YES, unit will power down if temp rises to 150°C

    -Wire size - Use 22 gauge solid core wire only - for power input. Use a minimum of 24 gauge solid core wire to attach LEDs

    -Dimming - YES, it comes with a FREE remotely mountable dimmer knob!

    -Available versions- 350ma, 700ma, 1000ma.

    -Dimensions - 2.0in X 1.95in X 0.43in


    -Thermal Dissipation- capable of dissipating over 3 watts when attached to a large heatsink*

    -Operating Frequency of the driver - 5 MHz! One of the fastest driver chips on the market! ZERO flickering when dimming!


    -Arduino input - YES. This is plug and play with Arduino, and even works with stock Arduino programs!

    -PWM Input - YES. This accepts standard PWM for dimming and automation. Accurate linear dimming is compatible with PWM frequencies from 100 Hz to 5 kHz for PWM duty cycle down to 1%. PWM frequencies up to 50 kHz can be supported for duty cycles greater than 10%.

    -Aquarium controller compatibility - YES! Any aquarium controller with 0-10V dimming can control this driver using Steve's Aquarium Controller Harness. For this driver to accept a 0-10V input, Steve's Aquarium Controller Harness is required.

    - 2 year limited warranty against manufacturing defects. Steve's LEDs, LLC will determine the nature of the defect, and your item may be repaired or replaced free of charge, customer pays shipping.

    - Current version shipping is V6.8



    I see a part there that says 10v so I'm assuming it's that. But if I were to check with a multimeter, where am I checking? At the input to the LED strip?
     
  6. cj5_dude

    cj5_dude Flamingo Tongue

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    Ok, so it seems to work with the 10v side and dims and brightens with the press of a button. So that's all good.

    BUT, it won't turn them all the way off. There's two strips of LED's on the heat sinks. One strip will turn all the way off at 0% but the other won't. How do I trouble shoot this? Obviously at night I need them totally off.