Need tips/help for installing diy c2c overflow

I should be getting my tank soon and the first project I will have to complete is building the overflow and drilling the returns and bean animal overflow. I want to cop this guys design which just happens to be on a 65g of the same dimensions. I have never tackled a project like this and was looking for some advice or tips to look out for when I'm doing this...What silicon should I get? What thickness glass? Any good guides to follow?


This is 3reef member Insanespain's 65g

 

I used 1/4" glass and it seems to be working well. No special treatment on the edges or anything. 100% silicone with no anti-fungal stuff is what you're after (GE silicone I).

I like the idea of plumbing the returns through the overflow like Spain did and thought about doing that w/ mine but it's kind of a PITA to get it right (way more elegant though). I just drilled the returns below the overflow and used Locline to get 'em back up to the surface to avoid massive back siphon.

Looking forward to seeing how it turns out...

Also, did you see that auto-feeder in Elliott's video? Thought of you when I saw it. Pretty gnarly....

 

Few other things I thought of....

Measure your street elbows and your bulkheads to determine how big you want the horizontal piece of glass. You'll want to be able to pull the elbows out (recommend slip bulkheads and no glue here) if you need to. For 1" bulkheads, mine ended up being 4".

Seal the gap between the glass and rim on the outside when you drill. If you happen to get some water in there that's all clouded up with glass silt it's a total drag to get it out.

Go slow when you drill. The weight of the drill is enough pressure to get the job done.

 

Just got a great tip on my local forum to use smoked glass and schedule 80 fittings for a cleaner looking install.


I hope this next question makes sense...

Should I glue the horizontal piece into the broad side of the vertical piece?

Or

Should the vertical piece be shorter and glue it's small end onto the horizontal?

 

by vertical and horizontal, I assume the "front" piece is vertical, and the bottom piece is horizontal.

You'll want the Vertical ("front") piece to be the bigger one, and then have the bottom piece connect behind it. This will make the seam less noticable.

My Tips: Be careful when you drill to be sure you're holes are far enough apart. Too close might be weak. Also, make good templates for drilling. the drill bit REALLY likes to walk, and having a template saves a lot of trouble. Especially if you need precision like to get the returns to go through the overflow.

 

Perfect, this is exactly what I meant. And thanks for the tip!

 

Ewolf had alot of great points that I wish I would have thought of before I built my C2C. I ended up having to cut the elbows just so I could put them in, I didn't measure properly the first time. Also +1 for sealing up the gap between the tank rim and the glass, I didnt do that and the rim got so cloudy I nvr got it clean. I also used 1/4" thick glass worked great. Oh and the best advice is to take pictures for us to c

 

Zech is right the drill bit loves to walk, it feels like its on glass or something :yelrotflm After practicing on a broken 10G I bought a hand drill press which worked great. Cost me $25 and got it at sears, its by Wolfcraft

 

I went the DIY route, and cut a pattern into eggcrate and used that as my template. If I would have had a scrap piece of plywood and a same-sized wood drill that would have probably been the best DIY way to go

 

Bingo. That and a couple clamps and you're all set. Even if your template hole is a bit bigger it still works like a charm. Just get it started until you have a groove and then remove the template. The recommendation on the smoked glass is a good one too. I went that route and I'm pretty pleased with it.

As far as the seams go, I went the other way and rested the upright piece on the bottom piece. It doesn't look bad, but Z is right. Do it like he said.