New 220 gallon setup needing guidance

Discussion in 'Filters, Pumps, etc..' started by aquamedic, Oct 14, 2012.

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  1. aquamedic

    aquamedic Plankton

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2012
    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Southern Ohio
    Plan so far.

    Ok, so here's my plan. I know everyone is very pro-drilling, but after calling around to multiple glass shops and getting turned down (and told not to do it at all!) I'm going to go with an Eshopps Overflow. Thinking 1200 is my best choice as far as flow goes. I know LifeReef is the preferred brand, but I can get a good deal on Eshopps, and they come highly recommended from my LFS. That will flow into a 40 gallon long glass sump. I will build 3 chambers. The Overflow will drain into a filter sock (heard good and bad things about using these) with my protein skimmer in the first chamber (haven't picked one out yet, hoping to buy something used from my LFS). Then after a bubble trap (3 glass baffles), a chamber of live rock rubble, then an empty chamber for heaters (thinking two 300W)/ anything else I decide I need to add. Here's my big-exciting-weird plan. I will have a 10 gallon aquarium next to the main sump and elevated to be as tall as it can be within the stand. It's my refugium! Thinking DSB and macroalgae. I will drill the 10 gallon refugium (I don't have a problem trying out drilling on it :) ) and have it drain back into the sump. Water will get to the refugium via a small submersible pump within the main sump. Then obviously a return pump to send water back to the DT. Not sure where I will plumb the refugium output yet, but I think that'll be an easy solution. I really want a refugium, but didn't want to force it into the 40 gallon sump. I think this will give me a good size. I also figured this would allow to completely control the flow through my refugium separately from the sump.

    I plan on using Argonite sand in the DT, using dry sand mostly with 1-2 bags of "live" sand. (I always was thought needing to use live sand was the word of God, but I've read negative things about it lately, so I'm not sure). Just a shallow bed, roughly 3" deep. Then add a butt-load of live rock, using a lot of base rock to build it up and let the LR seed the base rock eventually. I was also going to use a couple scoops of sand from my well established FOWLR tank either in addition to the live sand, or as a replacement. In my own thought process, I would think the live rock can do the job of "seeding" everything in the tank and live sand is kind of a waste of money. I have a hard time believing much meaningful life can survive in a sealed plastic bag. It reminds me of my freshwater days using bio-boost... which I really think is a rip off lol.

    I'm not sure as to my plan for the refugium. To me, it sounds like a solid plan, but I've had a few other great ideas that I've found out weren't so great. I wasn't able to find many threads about doing it the way I described, but I did see it a couple of times and people seemed to like the idea. I'm not sure as to the size of hole I should drill for the refugium, but I'm planning on a simple 1". I'm also not sure if I should drill the hole near the waterline, or build a baffle to separate the bulkhead from the refugium and drill low?

    Any input to my ideas would be much appreciated! Like I said before, I'm fairly experienced with saltwater, but this is a way bigger build than I've ever done. My first experience with a sump and hard plumbing as well. I'm still tempted to just go back to using canister filters;), but I know the sump/fuge will work out much better if I do it right! Does everyone think this will be enough filtration? Do I really need to live rock rubble in the sump, or should I leave that out since I'm going to have a good amount in the DT? I'm pretty proud of my plan, but I'm sure there a wiser more experienced folks here to guide me if I'm wrong about something.
     
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  3. cosmo

    cosmo Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2011
    Messages:
    6,166
    Location:
    southeast ohio O-H....
    I wouldn't give up yet on drilling, it is worth it. While I've never had to figure out if glass is tempered or not, many on here have.
    Here's a link:
    How to Tell If Glass Is Tempered | eHow.com

    The glass companies probably said no just because they don't want to buy a tank if they break it.

    There are threads galore out there to help.

    I'd SERIOUSLY reconsider for a tank that size, IMO

    A 220 build is nothing to rush into, I'd take weeks to read up and plan, the sump and plumbing system alone should be very planned out or else you'll kick yourself. I'd spend a few days reading some of the bigger threads on here to get an idea of possibilites.
     
  4. rossco838

    rossco838 Astrea Snail

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2011
    Messages:
    61
    Go get your self a 10 Gallon to practice on I did this when I needed to drill my tanks. Also buying a suction cup drill guide from brs makes it a lot easier too. About a year ago I was in the same boat as you couldn't find anyone to drill it. Since then I've drilled a 65 a 90 and a 220 all with 3 holes each. Once you do it once or twice on your practice 10 gallon tank you will wonder why you were so worried. The 220 took about 10 mins per hole being 1/2" glass