New FOWLR Filter??

Discussion in 'New To The Hobby' started by LPCHPC, Jan 27, 2005.

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  1. LPCHPC

    LPCHPC Plankton

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2005
    Messages:
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    Location:
    Los ANgeles, CA,California
    Hi folks. Well, I am setting up a new 100g FOWLR. The tank will have a Remora Pro P.S. w/skimbox, 48" Coralife 4x96w PC, three powerheads rated each 400gph, DSB in display tank and approx 100-120lb LR. My question is towards other types of filtration. I am considering either the EHEIM 2028 Canister or EHEIM 2229 Wet/Dry filter. Are either of these two filters necessary for helping mainain good water chem and clear visibilty? If so a recomendation on one of the two or another you may feel fits the bill would be great. Thanx..
     
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  3. Poppy828

    Poppy828 Fire Shrimp

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2004
    Messages:
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    Location:
    Naperville, IL,Illinois
    I would go wet/dry if I were you. Less maintanence than a canister. Much less actually. I use Pro Clear wet/dry's....should I say I did before I built a refugium. Are you planning on adding corals to this tank? If not, then the lights are overkill for fish only in my opinion.

    I did some FOWLR and ran 50/50 bulbs. (2) 48" fixtures. They were dual  24" bulbs per fixture. I think it was a total of 80w or so. Can't remember for the life of me. I had nice coraline growth. no nuisance algae, and the fish believe it or not had nice colors.

    T
     
  4. Black_Raven

    Black_Raven Scooter Blennie

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    Apr 5, 2004
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    1,220
    Location:
    Woodbury, MN,Minnesota
    If you have that much live rock why even run a wet-dry? They will be a nitrate producing factory. If you just want mechanical and chemical filtration just get an aquaclear 500 at 500gph which runs at 14watts or a couple of penguin 330's at 330gph and 6watts. The penguins have removable bio wheels so you can add or remove the bio wheels depending on whether or not you need and bio filtration. I used the on my 120g initially till i got my sump and refuge set up along with the right amount of live rock. I was able to use just one out of the four bio-wheels and keep my ammonia, nitrites at 0 and my nitrates at 15 with the tank stocked with a purple tang, regal blue tang, flag fin angel, false eyed puffer, black tomato clown and cleaner gobie. I eventually removed the last bio wheel and nitrates dropped even lower. Good luck
     
  5. Matt Rogers

    Matt Rogers Kingfish

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    Location:
    Berkeley, CA
    Yeah with that much rock I'd just go with a sump so you can put your skimmer, heater, etc.. down there and get more water volume.

    I agree with Poppy with the wet/dry over canister, but I think Poppy doesn't realize perhaps that the Eheim wet/dry is still a canister! ;D A very cool one though.
     
  6. woowoodengy

    woowoodengy Astrea Snail

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2005
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    Location:
    chicago, IL,Illinois
    yeah i never had a wet dry i just have a ton of rock dont even know how mutch. my buddy use to work at the lfs and got me a killer deal on it any way of finding out how much it is with out taking it out so i agree all you need is a sump plus if you ever get a refugium like i did there will even be less need for it
     
  7. Poppy828

    Poppy828 Fire Shrimp

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2004
    Messages:
    337
    Location:
    Naperville, IL,Illinois
    You are right Matt. I only have used Pro Clear wet/dry's. My initial post was flawed. My fingers work when they want to sometimes ;D. The wet/dry is better than a canister in my opinion as I stated before. I would use a wet/dry (proclear) and remove all the bio balls. Less nitrate problems this way and room to add your skimmer and other items. I used mine this way before the refugium. Heater went in it, skimmer, and return pump. In fact, I still have one of the 2 wet/dry's I was using and am trying to sell it. Not saying this to hijack the thread, just passing on some info.

    T