New tank 28 nano cube quad CF

Just set this up with LR and LS. I have some questions. I am so new that I was unaware that this was not made by oceanic (I thougt it was the same as a biocube). I have been researching mods on here for a week, and nothing made sense because the back of mine is different than the biocube's being described. Are there any needed mods for the nano cube. Are the CF 105 watt lights good enough, or is there an upgrade that I would want, to still stay in the hood. Is the filter OK with the ceramic discs or should I upgrade to a fuge and get rid of some of the filter components. I am very confused at this point, and want to set this up optimal before I add any live stock. Sorry, for the stupid questions, just trying to figure this all out.

 

This is a JBJ correct?
You can go to the JBJ site and look at their upgrade lighting systems. They do hood lighting upgrades for LED, and Metal halide.

Look at the link below.

Nano Cube Replacement Hoods

For most newer hobbyist that type of lighting (CF) will be fine. You can keep LPS and some of the less demanding SPS. All soft corals will be fine. If your goal is to go dominate sps you might consider the upgrade.

Personally I always just remove the rings or bio-balls, just my choice. There is a media basket you can buy. In the media basket you can place charcoal, mechanical sponge.

The most important filter is going to be your live rock, that is where I would focus, is getting adequate live rock established and adequate flow. Adding a power head to the display is really a must with this tank. You can go with a Koralia #2 or higher or a more expensive brand such as Vortech and get a mp10.

 

Forgot to add this, you may have already looked at it.

http://www.3reef.com/forums/fish-tank-brands-kits/jbj-28-gallon-owners-thread-103983.html

 

Thanks! Yes, its a jbj nano

 

Another question I have. I currently dont have a way to test SG. I need to add some water to the rear chambers, as bubbles are forming everywhere. I know I am supposed to add water, and not salt water. How do I know how high in the chambers to top it off without going over my original salt water placed in the tank. I'm guessing the answer is to get a way to check salt levels. Even then, how will I know how much water vs. salt water to add to the back?

 

Is there any live stock in the tank yet?

If you are topping off, replacing evaporated water, just add some RO/DI water to the back. I have a reasonably good idea where the level of my water is supposed to be just by looking in the compartments. If you are getting bubbles from the water level being so low the power heads are sucking air, add at least enough FW to prevent that from happening.

You are going to need a hydrometer at least initially, but for now just add enough FW/RO/DI to keep the power heads from sucking in air.

Once you buy a hydrometer or much better a refractometer, get the water level to about 4 - 3 below the rim in the most outer chamber and the SG accordingly. Then top off to that same level as needed.

 

No livestock yet. I will top it off and get a refractometer to check it. If its low, I will look up how to add salt. Thanks for the great info!

 

Always mix salt and the RO/DI (fresh) in a separate container, never add any salt mix directly to the tank. You can do this with the initial set up but after that you can not.

The directions on salt mix usually give a salt mix to gallon ratio to equal as specific SG. For instance 1/2 cup of Reef crystals added and mixed with one gallon of water should give you roughly a SG of 1.021-1.023, you still need to check that before adding it to the tank with a refractometer. When mixing salt let it stand or mix for at least 24 hours prior to adding to the display.

You will only be adding fresh SW mix when doing water changes, the rest of the time you will be adding just straight RO/DI.

Water evaporates salt does not. By adding made up SW instead of only RO/DI you will quickly drive up your SG.

 

Corailline, thanks. Do you have a sump on your nano, or have you thought about putting one on, if its even possible.