New Tank Thread

Discussion in 'Show Off Your Fish Tanks!' started by techno2, Sep 9, 2008.

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  1. techno2

    techno2 Stylophora

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    Oh, and what about the water level ?
    If I want 7.5" depth in the tank to account for overflow, does that make my shortest baffle 7.5 " ?

    Also, the EV180 gate valve is at 10" and needs to be above water to drip in.
    I suspect I will need to lift the EV 180 3.5 " correct ?

    \Cheers
     
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  3. techno2

    techno2 Stylophora

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  4. cannedmulder

    cannedmulder Teardrop Maxima Clam

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    Redmond OR
    When you are in photobucket there are 4 choices to chose from. The last choice had in front of it the IMG message. That is the choice that you want to copy to paste pics.
     
  5. eggerstout

    eggerstout Skunk Shrimp

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    return section

    double2mk

    Your definately going to run into water evaportation problems in your pump return section, which looks like it will be 5"x6"x12.5", which is about 1.6 gallons, figure about .5 to 1 gallon evaporation a day and your looking at your return pump running pretty close to dry. I had the same setup a while ago, but changed it when I bought my ev 180, I could make it about 2 days without adding any water, so I was adding water everyday which was a pain. Then I added a tunze osmolater to control the water top-off and its been a blessing having it. You could run your sump the way you currently have it but I would invest in a good top off, that you know you can rely on.

    Heres my new sump design
    [​IMG]
    heres my old design
    [​IMG]
     
  6. techno2

    techno2 Stylophora

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    Hey, good feedback. Well to add a auto top off, i need to be able to run the RO unit output top the tank, correct ? Not sure I can do that but I will take a look.

    Do I have any other options ?

    Thanks
     
  7. techno2

    techno2 Stylophora

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    OK, off to the plumbing store today. You thought I had questions before...

    So I am using ReefSparkey's design.
    [​IMG]

    Questions:
    1.) What is the piece called right where the intake is ?
    2.) What do you use to connect the pump outputs tot he rigid PVC ? I suspect a flex hose of sorts.
    3.) The MF 1" bulkhead has a barbed fitting with a threaded base. Is the barbed area where a flex hose gets clamped to ?


    Thanks
     
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  9. techno2

    techno2 Stylophora

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    Back from store, need help..

    OK, back from the store.
    Now I have these two big piles of stuff to assemble..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    Luckily I picked up this bad boy. It really cuts through quick.
    [​IMG]



    Here is a dry fit with the hole plugged. Tank was from LFS drilled.
    [​IMG]


    Yup. Still fits. I will have to assemble inside though as I couldn’t’ jimmy it in as one piece.
    There goes my pulling the unit out for maintenance idea.
    [​IMG]


    --= OK HERE IS MY PROBLEM.=--
    How do I connect this bulkhead from the Megaflow overflow kit. To the union thingy
    At the top of the plumbing ?
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    \Cheers
     
  10. gazog

    gazog Kole Tang

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    You should have put the ball valve above coupling that way you could turn water off from tank and disconnect it from tank to move it..
     
  11. techno2

    techno2 Stylophora

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    Ahh thanks
    Like this .
    [​IMG]


    Slides in and out no problem. Sometime we overthink the simple things..


    Now if I can just figure out how to connect the tank to the sump, I will be all set..


    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2008
  12. gazog

    gazog Kole Tang

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    Nov 26, 2007
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    1,785
    Looks like that bulkhead fitting requires the used of some spa hose and clamps. Which personally I don't like the idea of using spa hose, I hard piped mine.

    But if your going to use it you have to get some from Lowe's or home Depot. Lowe's also has a barbed fitting that will connect directly to that pipe or ball fitting you are using.

    Put the bulkhead in the tank hook the hose to it with a clam and hook other end to a barbed fitting hooked to that ball valve.