Nitrate levels high

it is true sand beds bubble up. i don't think it's a good idea to stir sand beds as you might hit a sulphur spot and release it into your tank (which spells trouble!).

 

HELP AGAIN!!!!
Hello all, although this post has somewhat altered from the original, here's the scoop - Took my water sample to LFS and they also tested Nitrates in the 100+ range. I also found out that my skimmer hadn't been working for the past couple days (not sure how that slipped past me, but hadn't checked it for a couple days and when I did, it was just doing nothing). Got that up and going and have done a 40% water change over the past 2 days (20% for 2 days in a row). Guess what? When I test now, I still have nitrates in the 100+ range (according to my dip test). My fish, 2 shrimp, snails and urchin all seem to be doing OK (although the fish seem a little worried when ever I open the cover - Not another water change!!). I'm really baffled that the levels are still that high after that big of a water change. I've tested the new water before the change and it's at the 0 ppm mark for nitrates (after mixing and circulating for 24 hours). I'm going to change another 20% tomorrow. Does anyone have any ideas about what might be going on? Would the protein skimmer not working be partially responsible for the levels going as high as they were? Could everyone's test be misreporting something else as nitrates (as it seems odd that people think everybody should be dead and they are still happily going about their business)?

 

Weird. What kind of kits did you lfs use?

 

I got very high readings using the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kits, which state they measure 4.4 times higher than those that measure nitrate-nitrogen. I took a sample to my LFS who was using dip tests that read about the same. I purchased a salifert test kit that reads much lower. It can be a bit confusing, but I tend to trust the Salifert kit and the fact that my inverts all seem to be growing and happy.

Let us know how it turns out!

 

yes it is weird. if the nitrate stays at that level (100++) then i suspect something in your tank is producing it. I had a clam and a coral die on me before and nitrate rose to 50 only. so it has to be some thing else

Mr Bond your specs ----
55 gal glass tank, FOWLR, 2 660 power heads, wet/dry filter, protein skimmer, 35 lbs live rock, pair of tomato clowns, 1 common sea urchin, 1 cleaner shrimp, 1 Candy Cane shrimp, 2 turbo snails

suspect --- your wet dry filter.

 

So, reiple, you suggest what? I get rid of the wet/dry? If so, replace it with what?
All the fish etc still seem OK today.
GravIT, not sure what test the LFS uses. They tested it the whole time before I added fish and never reported high Nitrates. It was not a dip test though and I don't remember seeing the "AP" tests for sale there, so assume they aren't using them. I really don't understand what's going on, but am starting to think that the levels really aren't as high as they show. They have been showing this high for over a week now, and all seems to be well with the life in the tank. My cleaner shrimp who hid the entire first week we had him, has started coming out this week (maybe not a good thing I guess). Anyway, that's the latest. Going to do another water change today and will post the water test afterward.

 

Latest update if anyone is interested. Did 20% changes for the past 2 days and the levels are now reading in the 20 ppm range. I hope it was just a combination of the protein skimmer and overfeeding that caused the problem in the first place and this won't just happen again in a week...
How often does everyone test their water (daily, every other day, every week etc)?
Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions with this!!

 

This is my suggestion (and IMHO).

Doing frequent wc is good but the relief it does for nitrates is temporary at best. The wet dry filter provides excellent ammonia to nitrite to nitrate conversion. Buck stops there. Hence the excessive nitrate reading. Usually not so sensitive fishes can survive up to 100ppm. Many angels and butterflys can survive up to 50ppm. Generally 20ppm for FO to FOWLR is ideal.

So I suggest setting up an excellent Berlin based system and perhaps DSB filtration instead of wet dry. If you want you can do this by adding (albiet slowly) LR until your ratio is 1.75 to 2 lb per gallon (or in your case add 62 to 75 lbs). Then increase your sand layer using aragonite (never crush coral) by an inch until it reaches 4 to 6 inches. During this time slowly remove the wet dry media (bioballls?) and wash the filter media more frequently (with saline water from tank). In the end there should be no more bioballs. The filter pads and sponges can be left behind but you have to wash them weekly. A slight cycling will occur when you do all these.

The sand bed (refered to as DSB) matures in 3 to 6 months. The LR (cured) adapts in a week to two weeks.

When all these settle down you can expect a nitrate reading of 0 to 20. Hopefully.

Take care, Mr. Bond.

 

Reiple I agree with your suggestions and down the road that may be the course to take. But I think it's important to note that Mr. Bond has mentioned in his last post that overfeeding and his skimmer not working may have contributed to this situation. I've worked on a lot of wet/dry setups as a maintenance guy and I've seen a few in the 40 ppm range of nitrates, but I don't recall any in the 100+ range. I suspect it was a combo of things here.

Mr. Bond to answer your question, I personally try to test once a week at the moment as I am trying to get a feel for my corals calcium appetite. If I had problems though, I'd do it more often.

Good luck! Now that you have diluted the problem, I hope you (and all of us) can get a handle on it to prevent further spikes.