pH very very low

i have to agree with marshall, i have not had issue with api test kits. and if you research it , you will see in official tests they come up good. I'm not sure how this company got this bad rep. but i don't see it. i also have a ph probe. calibrated. gabby if i were you i would buy another test kit in another brand or take your water to a local fish store. i wonder about your probe? i know you have an apex, and can tell you other probes don't do as well with them as their probe does. ( the apex probe)

 

I had specified that I was referring to the center color scale.

About my pH. It is not low. 7.7 would be low. It is clearly and consistently within the acceptable range for a reef tank (7.8 - 8.3). My probe was calibrated a few months ago, but I will recalibrate.

Also, I did mention in the other thread that a fuse blew, and that the power was lost to the tank for 25-30 hours

I can buy some new calibration solution and test the accuracy of the probe (aka stick it in some pH 7 solution and see if it reads 7). This is good to know, thanks.

Also, I cannot seem to agree about the API test kits. Have you seen their phosphate test? Pink4miss, you have given me a lot of great advice in the past. But I just cannot agree with this one lol. I use API tests for NH3, NO2, and NO3. However, for the more important values I just cannot trust them. Actually, its not only that I can't trust them, but I cannot read them. I also tested the Ca and alk values against the highly regarded salifert test kits (brand new), and the alk was way off. The calcium was reasonably consistent though. Additionally, the salifert test kits come with a solution of a known alkalinity, so you can confirm the accuracy of your kit. The color card for the PO4 test is useless, but I suppose that could be said about any PO4 test kit..

For example: The NO3 test


*Referring to the left side
seriously - they are the same color yellow. Even if there is the slightest difference, you still cannot tell which yellow it is by comparing the yellow liquid to the color scale!!

 

I missed that, so I apologize.

I said pH was on the low side, not low As long as you are maintaining alk above 8.4, which you are, then your pH is fine.

Somehow I read through and thought you just came home from work. I read faster than my brain can process most times :-/

Get both 7.0 and 10.0 buffer. Hopefully when you calibrate it uses these two points instead of just one point (7.0).

I know I, and likely Pink4miss, was referring only to the pH test. However, the picture you found must be old or something. Here is what my card looks like (Nitrate on the right):


Hard to really see, but 0 is definitely yellow, and then gets progressively orange and red. There is a difference though, unlike the photo you found (which I agree shows nothing!).

And hopefully you are taking this as sincerely trying to help, and not just criticism. You clearly have a good handle on your tank, so don't take anything as negative!

 

Yeah, my pH test kit is probably old now. It wasn't old when I tested it against the probe though. I suppose it is possible that they improved it (and other tests as well).

Lol no, I am not taking this thread negatively. Though, maybe I did get a little defensive there! I probably would have made the same points as you did if I came across this topic. This was meant to be more of an emergency thread (at the time).. I wasn't sure how quickly I should bring the pH back up, but it happened spontaneously after I posted.

 

No problem at all! I just wish I knew what was up with the temp issue...that is still bugging me :-/

 

My best guess is a problem with the thermostat. That is the only possible explanation. I don't have a chiller, fan (that is attached), or anything else to cool the tanks

 

pH fluctuates through the day. The net consumption of carbon dioxide during the daylight hours, leads to some aquariums to become deficient in CO2 during the day, and the pH rises.If you are having dramatic fluctuations you can aerate the aquarium water to degass excess carbon dioxide. Also try using a salt mix with a naturally higher buffering capacity like Tropic Marin or add buffer to raise your alkalinity to help reduced the pH swings

 

Did you even read this thread? Or did you just look at the title? My levels are fine and stable(see above). I provided my morning and night pH. My alk is high enough. I had a problem for one day when a fuse blew and the power was cut to the tank.