Plans for a DIY sump

Discussion in 'I made this!' started by BayTib13, Aug 4, 2011.

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  1. BayTib13

    BayTib13 Plankton

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    Ok, so background first. I have a 36gallon bowfront, for filtration I'm running a fluval 205. I also have a marineland 400 powerhead that can be converted to a sump pump, and an eshopps psk 100H skimmer.

    I have drawn up a quick sketch of a sump idea thanks to paint XD. I am not sure of the piping size yet nor am I sure of what I'm going to do for an overflow box. This marineland 400 is rated for I believe 110gph in sump mode, Would this be sufficient for a 20g sump and what overflow gph rating would I need? Or should I just get a bigger pump to return the amount of gph that I would need.

    The draw up is in the attatchments.

    If there are any questions about what I wrote feel free to ask. Also feel free to critique my drawup. At this moment I am not sure where I will be putting the shutoff valve.

    Edit: Also I forgot to mention why I talked about the fluval. I was thinking about using the output hose to connect to the return pump in order to save money on piping. But this is not a major concern, it would also help as the output has a shroud that fans the current out.
     

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    Last edited: Aug 4, 2011
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  3. Seano Hermano

    Seano Hermano Giant Squid

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    I hope this helps.
     
  4. BayTib13

    BayTib13 Plankton

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    Thank you lol, I've been waiting patiently for someone to reply. The hose should reach far enough, but I'm thinking it will be too small as its only about 1/2" in diameter.

    Also one thing I did think of, is that I should probably use a Y fitting instead of a T, and steadily slope in down towards the fuge, and like you said put a valve in it to slow the flow.

    One person did mention that they were having a big problem with microbubbles and noise from the water flowing into the center return section.

    My opinion on this is that the micro bubbles, as little as the fall is, should only be on the surface, so I may put some kind of top piece with a cutout for the return pipe, to keep splashing to a minimum from the bubbles. I'm not too worried about them getting back into my DT, as the pump will be on the bottom of the section and should not be pulling the bubbles through..hypethetically.

    Anyone have advice on this part?
     
  5. link248

    link248 Ritteri Anemone

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    I would switch the fuge and skimmer area. Put a ball valve on the refuge tube. The water will go there first and because of the restriction (ball valve) the rest of the water will go to your skimmer area. Here is a pict of mine
     

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  6. BayTib13

    BayTib13 Plankton

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    I like that, I'll be switching them around then :)

    How much noise and microbubble problems do you have with the water falling from the fuge? I've heard its a pain, but I can't see how it would be very bad.

    Also, what did you use for your baffles? Acryllic,glass, or plexiglass?
     
  7. link248

    link248 Ritteri Anemone

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    No noise. The end of the pvc is about 2" under the water. It isn't glued in, so it I need to get that tank out, I can just twist it off. The flow is very slow, so it slowly runs over the baffle. the skimmer pvc is also below the surface to stop noise, but has 3 baffles to eliminate micro bubbles.

    The baffles are 1/4 thick tempered glass. I went with tempered because it was only about $10 more over regular glass.

    I would recommend using glass, unless you got 1/4 thick acrylic (more expensive) any thinner and it will bow and come apart from the silicone
     
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  9. BayTib13

    BayTib13 Plankton

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    How much did it run you for 4 baffles of tempered? And where would I be able to get it?
     
  10. link248

    link248 Ritteri Anemone

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    I paid $65 for all 4, made to the sizes I wanted. You can call any glass shop and have them order them. Even windshield replacement companies. Just make sure you call around first to get quotes. Some places wanted a lot more than $65