Pleh!!!

Discussion in 'ASAP' started by Limerboy, Jun 20, 2009.

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  1. Limerboy

    Limerboy Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2009
    Messages:
    81
    Location:
    Trinidad and Tobago (Caribbean)
    Emerald crabs are really hard to get down here so i guess they are out...
    Nitrates are abit high i need to get me a phosphate test kit (which is also hard to find here)

    my T5 bulbs are these:
    2 ATI Blue+
    1 KZ Fiji Purple
    1 UVL Super Actinic

    right now im only runnin 1 ATI Blue+ and 1 UVL Super Actinic as my fiji purple got destroyed in shipping and im waiting on a new one.
     
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  3. Limerboy

    Limerboy Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2009
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    81
    Location:
    Trinidad and Tobago (Caribbean)
  4. mikejrice

    mikejrice 3reef Affiliate

    Joined:
    May 24, 2009
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    5,926
    Location:
    Colorado
    Keep the hermits and add a crew of snails too. Fill out this form and they will tell you what you should get:

    ReefCleaners.org | Clean Up Crews and Macro Algae
     
  5. Limerboy

    Limerboy Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Trinidad and Tobago (Caribbean)

    thanks i think im goin to turn my bulbs off for 5 days and hope for the best. I will also cut down on my feedings. and Mayeb get some cleaner snails instead of the hermits...I think my bulbs are good for now.
     
  6. schackmel

    schackmel Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2008
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    3,153
    Location:
    St. Louis
    Does it by chance look like snot? Golden brown color with the bubbles coming off the snot? I cant see from the pics but you either have cyano or I think it could be dino. Either way it can be salvaged! Just follow the steps that I outlined (at least worked for me!)

    An emerald crab will do well to remove some of the bubble algea. How are you removing the bulbble algea...you do not want to pop the bubbles, need to remove it intact or else you will release the spores into your water and make it worse. I get a big turkey baster and place it over the bubble and carefully remove it...PIA I know

    But cut back on the nutrients you will starve them all out (lights, foods, phos)

    I have a 135g tank and I only feed every other day to every 3 days...and only about half of what I was originally feeding
     
  7. Limerboy

    Limerboy Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

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    Location:
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    will try this. My tank is located in an area where it get some morning glare from the sun so ive totally covered it and will try to starve of light. I am also goin to feed every other day as well.
     
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  9. unclejed

    unclejed Whip-Lash Squid

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2008
    Messages:
    2,964
    Location:
    Clinton Township, Michigan
    Well, let's take this a step at a time. I think you need a little more rock. You did not post what your total filtration set up is (unless I missed something) i.e. skimmer, wet/dry, etc.
    Cyano is a bacteria not algae and is unaffected by flow and light, contrary to the belief (myth) of some. High undesired nutrient volume is the main food source for cyano and also for undesired algae. Depending on the mechanical filtration you have (or lack) 30% water changes bi-weekly may be in order. A phosphate reactor is always a plus and I recommend using one.
    Using Chemi-Clean or Red Slime Remover will be the quick fix and then, as suggested, a more sparse feeding regimen will help to eliminate and/or prevent the cyano from returning.
    Now, about your light scheme, I do not see any 10,000k lighting. Without proper spectrum in the tank many algae thrive on lower or incomplete lighting. Is there a reason you are trying to go mostly Blue?
     
  10. Limerboy

    Limerboy Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

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    Location:
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    hmmm currently i use an aquaclear 100 for filtration. Since the algae bloom i have removed the bio filtration module and have put in two activated carbon modules. I use an aqua c remora skimmer for skimming with the maxi jet 1200. I have about 50lbs of live rock in my tank to serve as bio filtration. Maybe my problem is mechano filtration...i may have to put in a overflow and employ a wet dry system. Im willing to try less feedign and the lights off for five days. I will order a phosban reactor as well and do some water changes i think i may end up doing a 100% water change over 2 or 3 days
     
  11. unclejed

    unclejed Whip-Lash Squid

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    Location:
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    I am against the practice of massive water changes for the fact that you will be removing too much available bacteria from the water volume. It will also disrupt the chemistry of the tank. These two occurrences can cause the tank to re-cycle,something you don't need right now. You can employ a tactic I have used on occasion. Siphon all of your sand/substrate just prior to a 30% water change. This should put a band aid on the problem until you get the reactor and set up the over flow and wet/dry. After the water change add live bacteria at double the marine dose. This should be done twice with 2 days between the doses.
    Why no 10,000k?
     
  12. Limerboy

    Limerboy Spanish Shawl Nudibranch

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Trinidad and Tobago (Caribbean)
    hmm i went with the bulb combination from advice from the forum i liek the colours. I hope it is practical...if after 5 days of 0 light i iwll definately try the above. Tahnsk to all those who helped.