Plumbing for 1/3hp JBJ Chiller & UV Light

Just upgraded to a 100gal saltwater tank and got above chiller.
My question is what is best way to plumb both.
Presently I have a Mag 5(500gph) dedicated pump running from sump to chiller(JBJ 1/3hp recommended 480-2400gph flow) then to UV light(18w TurboTwist)(recommended 200-400gph flow) then into tank.
I was thinking of running chiller from return pump(Blueline T4 1200gph) straight to tank, then run UV light dedicated to the Mag 5 since its slower.
Or get a bigger UV(36w turbotwist recommend-400-1200gph) plumb the chiller from return to UV.
Any thoughts?

Temp was 80-82(Octopus skimmer custom made outside sump running 72Cree LED's, 2x Ecotech Mp10's & 150Phosban reactor with no other heat transfer. Wanted to pull down temp to 77-78.

 

If you're running a chiller AND a UV, and you want them on the same pump, add the UV on the intake side of the chiller. The reason being that the UV unit will heat your water some, so you want to mitigate this extra thermal issue.

That being said, what are you hoping to accomplish with the UV unit? You'll need to match the flow and power rating to the organism you're trying to target. Remember that UV units only affect waterborne organisms, and most pathogens aren't found in the water column for very long, if at all.

IIRC, Blue Line pumps also have a reputation for running warm (they typically add 4*F-5*F to your temp), but the chiller should deal with that as well.

Personally, I wouldn't run the UV at all, but if you do, I'd run it from a separate pump than the main return, and I'd run it off of a canister filter if you can as the clearer the water, the more effective the UV will be.

HTH

 

My Blueline is running external so no real heat transfer, I am a beginner and had a 50gal tank when ICH broke out I put a UV light and it helped clear it, so Im sticking with the sterilizer.
I also did have a Canister filter attached to UV as suggested by instructions but understand its a Nitrate factory and needs to be cleaned frequently.

 

Yes, a Blue Line would HAVE to run externally, since it's not a submersible pump, but a warm-running external pump can raise your water temp.

That being said, I was confusing the Blue Line with the Poseidon pumps (they're blue and shaped similarly), which are quiet as heck but very warm-runners. The Blue Lines are the same as the Pan Worlds, and were designed by the former chief engineer at Iwaki. In fact, I'm running a PW on one of our new setups (PS-200). Not super quiet, but seems OK so far. So my mistake on the pump.

Crypto is only in the water column for about 12 - 48 hrs once it reaches the theront stage, so you might get a few at that point, but whatever you treated the fish with actually did the trick.

As for the canister, clean it every week or two (especially the sponges)...what can I say, don't be lazy.