plumbing materials ?

so im goin out to get my sump/fuge supplys today(cant wait to see this bill)

im going to be using rigid white pvc, my questions is what kind of pvc glue is safe to use to hold joints together?
name or
pic of bottle or anything to make sure i dont kill my tank with toxic glue.

 

Gorilla PVC Specifications

can even get it in different colors

 

$40.00 -to $50.00 if you use unions and valves and PVC glue is fine The Rain and shine requires no priming and sets up really fast. Thats why we used it on water mains and in branch feeds to buildings off of the main . As for a brand ? Oatty and Hercules makes it for commercial use to local Codes never herd of Gorilla . And you have to prim it or use the rain and shine . Not saying the gorilla stuff is not O.K ? But been working with ABS PVC and CPVC since it was legal to use in the early 70's and I have always used the above products , Look its not glue it a Catalyst and it melts and dissolves and welds or fuses the pipes to the fittings .. Thats why the primer is so important and required by all locals plumbing codes Nation wide. Just never use any all purpose glue they sell it but it won't work .. ABS and PVC and CPVC a totally different materials .

 

ok tangster i got OATLEY medium blue RAIN_R_SHINE PVC CEMENT. is this right? and i also got OATLEY PURPLE PRIMER for pvc,cpvc.

You said i do not have to use the primer with the rain r shine.?
would it be better if i did?

can i pick your brain for a few other questions.

i got a eshoppe overflow i belive its 800 gph, came with 1 inch bulkhead. i also got 1 inch pvc to go to the sump from overflow along with T connector and ballvalve to go to fuge. Then to go back up i got a mag 7. now the mag 7 book says its a 3/4 inch outlet, but its really 1/2inch. so i got 1/2 inch fittings, and pipe. is 1/2 inch pvc to small diameter for this amount of flow will i get alot of back pressure?

if you see a potential problem with any of this please tell me. i can still return stuff.(bigger pump,bigger pvc..ect)

 

The primer won't hurt or help the rain and shine one way or the other . But with that glue dry fit everything first and mark it because once you set them together its about done sets up really really fast , The drain pipe sound fine as for the pump I think a 9.5 to 18000 are 3/4 and the 7 is a 1/2 and thats fine all plumbing pipe is rated I.D only refrigeration and some oil and Gas tubing is rated O.D in the states .. The pump only has a 1/2 inlet and 1/2 out let and increasing the piping to 3/4 will only create a bit more head pressure from the little extra water weight inside the larger pipe . I'd just go with 1/2 and if you want to just add a 1/2x3/4 bushing and a 3/4 90 or even a 1.in 90 at the outlet this will decrease pressure and spread out the flow more in a wider area. Or if you want to shoot water harder to a far area just decrease the outlet rather then enlarging it.

 

have you ever came across these eshoppe over flows,i just tried a test in the tub and im not exactly sure how it works. no directions lol
it seems like it was made for you to modify,i dont see how this will not over flow my tank after power goes out and comes back on. i feel like i need to put a air valve in the tube that goes over the tank wall to get the air pocket out.
or is this just crap.

 

LOL I have came across them all at some point its just 3 ways to make one 2 correct and one wrong ): Is there a site or you have a Photo ? send it to me or post it I'll look at it , This is not J is it ? I get user and real names misaligned some times I have about 2.5 guys doing the same thing at once these last few weeks . Or can I search eshops ? if they have a photo.

 

lol no this is not j, real name brandon.
i think i figured it out. if i stick some airtubing in the overflow pipe and suck out the air it starts. the water stays in the tube when the water stops . tested it bunch of times now,im an idiot. it can drain as fast as my tub can pump.lol.

yeah just google shop, ehopps overflow box its the 800 gph model.
tell me if you see anything not right about it that could be a problem.
but i finally understand how it works.

 

If its the one that uses J tubes and not the CPR type then I think you have the better of the two From the drawings the J tube looked to be a tad short ? , If I where you I'd use 2 3/4 rather then one 1. inch J tube or add a 3/4 as a spare back up.. And I like you figured out simple slide some air line in the suck the air out with both ends of the J submerged totally

 

your talking about replacing the 1 inch j tube to 2 3/4. that could be done simply. incase a snail desides to hop in it.

one more thing please ...
when iwas doin the tub test , the water draing out the overflow bulkhead made a loud sloshing noise. is there any pluming tips to consider to keep the noise of the overflow down.

i mean should i come strait down out of the overflow then over and down into the sump. or should i go out of the overflow quick 90 degrees then down
(will this reduce noise?) i feel like i read this in your previous posts.