Proper Way to Plumb a RO/DI Unit (ie. Drains, inputs etc.) HELP PLEASE

Hello all,

I've had a brand new Kent Marine BB60HIS Bare Bones TFC RO unit 60 GPD just sitting in a box for an awfully long time.

I'm at a point where I would like to finally put the thing to use. I just need to know how. so I have a series of questions for those of you with RO/DI units currently.

#1 Is this a good RO Unit ... ?

#2 If anyone has pictures of their setup, I would love to see them. Does it need to be connected to a water source at all times? Does it need a drain at all times?

#3 Does it need monitoring? At 60 GPD it will fill my container in a day ... does it know when to stop? Where does the excess go?

#4 I have no tap or drain it can easily attach to ... whats involved in setting something up strictly for this unit?

Thats all for now ... I'm sure a million and one more questions will pop up once people try to explain to me how this thing is supposed to work ...

--Tyler

 

You're very welcome, Tyler!

 

The Kent is a good basic unit, comparable to most other 50 GPD units on the market. Dow Filmtec says 50 GPD at 50 psi while Kent says 60 GPD at 60 or 65 psi. Either way most of us don't have 60 or 65 psi at the tap and 77 degree wate rtemp so don't expect 60 gallons in a 24 hr period, usually 2/3 to 3/4 of that is normal.
It has a middle of the road carbon block rated at 3750 gallons of water at 2 ppm chlorine or about 7500 gallons at 1 ppm, better carbons can treat up to 20,000 gallons at 1 ppm but that can always be added at your first filter change at 6 months usage.
It does not include a DI filter but one can be added for about $30-$40 like found here.
Add On DI Kit with Color Changing Resin 10" x 2.5" :: Add-on DI Kits :: Deionization :: Filters and Housings :: Buckeye Field Supply, Ltd.

You can easily use it with a faucet adapter and put it away when done. Its done all the time. I prefer to hard plumb mine but there are endless possibilities. Take a look at the different directions found here:
Download :: Buckeye Field Supply, Ltd.

or here:
HOOK UP DIAGRAMS

An autoshutoff valve and float valve or solenoid and float switches are needed to automate it but its easy and inexpensive to do. I think you will find the diagrams above. You need a place to send the waste stream which wil be 4 times the amount as the good stream or 4:1 waste ratio which is normal. So make 60 GPD it will waste 240 GPD for a total of 300 gallons through the prefilter and carbon. see whay a good 20,000 gallon carbon block is important, all water that passes through the unit even the waste passes through the prefilter and carbon.

 

I do it a very simple way. The hardware store carries an attachment to the 1/4" input line that allows you to hook it up to a garden hose, about $2.00. I carry my unit, perhaps 10 lbs out to the back yard. I put the drain line on the lawn where I need some water and put the RO/DI line into my container(s). Turn it on and walk away, lawn gets watered and my container gets filled. The thought of letting 3 - 4 times the excess water go down the drain is a huge waste, especially during drought conditions here in California. You can also put the drain line into another bucket and carry it to water something else, even wash your car, just add soap.

 

Do not expose your RO or RO/DI to direct sunlight and heat or cold extremes. Once water enters the unit the carbon removes all traces of residual disinfectant so you have a breeding ground for bacteria and virus growth. You want to put it away wet so you are asking for trouble while its sitting stagnant. Keep it indoors and run the hoses and tubes outdoors so its not exposed to bright light. I have personally seen more than one example of people going to the hospital from drinking water from an un- maintained RO system and its not pretty, fish and corals are suspectible too.

 

I read the part about keeping it wet. How can I use this as a portable unit, yet keep it wet?

What I would like to do is put it on the sink (have an adapter for my python anyway) while I need it, running the good water to my water change bin, and the bad water right down the drain ... then disconnect, and put away when not in use.

Our water is perfect for drinking, and contains no chlorine. So I don't need the RO unit for me ... just the tank.

Any advice on making this thing portable would be greatly appreciated!

 

A 1/4" ball valve on the tap water and output sides works well, close them when done and the membrane and DI resins stay wetted until next use. Try to use it at least every 10 to 14 days so things don't go bad. If its a much more than that it is recommended you remove the membrane and DI cartridge and store them in zip loc bags along with a little water in the back of the refrigerator. Its easier to use them once a week or so.