Pump/Powerhead?

Discussion in 'New To The Hobby' started by N00ZE, Jul 5, 2012.

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  1. N00ZE

    N00ZE Eyelash Blennie

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    What pump and powerheads(brand/size) would I need?

    What I have is a 90G DT and a 30G sump refugium.
     
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  3. Seano Hermano

    Seano Hermano Giant Squid

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    Hi, Nooze. Hydor Koralia powerheads are pretty popular. They're good pumps and fairly inexpensive. You will likely need four Koralia 1050s or two 1050s and two 1400 for your 90 gallon display.

    If you need a return pump too, look into Tunze or Eeheim pumps. You will want a pump that can handle about 10x your display volume turnover at head pressure. So look for a pump that pushes about 900gph at 4-5 ft head.
     
  4. N00ZE

    N00ZE Eyelash Blennie

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    So if I go for the two 1050's and the two 1400's where would I place them on the side glass? two powerful ones at the top or one side have 1400-top 1050 middle then on the other side the opposite?

    What would the GPH that I would need?
     
  5. Seano Hermano

    Seano Hermano Giant Squid

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    I try to aim for around 40-60gph turnover in the display, depending on the types of coral you'd like to keep. Soft coral will want lower flow generally, but can handle more. LPS like medium flow (speaking in broad terms) and SPS usuallly do best in medium-high flow. For a mixed ref I would aim for about 60x turnover (90 gallons water volume ((minus space taken by rocks)) x 60).

    You will want a random flow, meaning to prevent/not have a gyre within the display. This randomness will give you a more natural flow pattern, also keeping particulates suspended within the water column to be taken out by filtration.

    So a 1400 on top and a 1050 lower. On the other end do a 1050 up high and a 1400 lower. Play around with it. If this doesn't work, try putting one or two of the pumps on the back wall.
     
  6. N00ZE

    N00ZE Eyelash Blennie

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    And for the pump GPH should be what?

    My set up has one way then splits up in three directions to 3 different bulkheads..

    I can post a picture of what it looks like if you want?
     
  7. N00ZE

    N00ZE Eyelash Blennie

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    sketched it up.

    [​IMG]

    It is going to be set up with a skimmer bar overflow.
     
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  9. mlott132

    mlott132 Fire Worm

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    If I could make a couple suggestions, I would advise against using a check valve and instead of ball valves use gate valves. From what I have heard, check valves generally fail when you need them most. Also, you will have a much easier time dialing in your flow using gate valves.
     
  10. Toallhisdoom

    Toallhisdoom Dragon Wrasse

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    I cant remember who makes it but pretty sure there is like a kit for 2 1300gph power heads and a controller for like under 100$ anyone remember what this was?
     
  11. N00ZE

    N00ZE Eyelash Blennie

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  12. Marshall O

    Marshall O Giant Squid

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    With check valves, it depends on the type and quality. I have 3/4" PVC piping and installed a 3/4" tru-union ball check valve. Ball checks are very reliable, and when they do fail, they only very slowly leak. Swinging gate style checks can have the entire gate break or get stuck, where it is useless. Duckbill style checks again are more prone to getting stuck open. I would not at all say that they are useless. They also protect your pump from spinning backwards. Again it depends on the style of pump, but many pumps can be damaged from this.

    What I did was use install the check as mentioned, along with having my sump filled to a height where even if the check did fail, I would not overflow.

    And as far as gate vs. check, if you are trying to control flow (you should never restrict a pump's discharge flow), a gate valve is the way to go. If you just need isolation valves, ball valves are perfect.

    Good luck!