Purp. Poly (come out come out)

Discussion in 'Coral' started by sykes_33, Aug 9, 2007.

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  1. sykes_33

    sykes_33 Astrea Snail

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    OK. This is really bugging. My 125 saltwater tank with live rock and the whole system setup needed. I have a sump, a skimmer, all the water level are perfect. I have mushrooms, 1 sea anemone, sea urchine, star fish, damsels, clown, anthias, turbo snails, live sand and rock. I do water changes every 2 weeks. In the sump I use 5 cups of Carbon constantly (not sure if this is good). also in the sump are shells, some live sand pieces of rock here and there and no lighting.

    Here is the problem, this is the 3rd time buying a rock with polyps on it. For a day they look great then they won't come out and eventually the purple carpet peels or dies off the rock and then I have nothing. I use DT's (2TBSP)almost daily with my frozen brine feedings. I don't turn on the skimmer for about 1 hour after feeding because I think it will suck up all the DT's. My calcium is test kit made by API is showing my water at 460-480(not sure if this is good). and my 5-1 dip stick says all water conditions are good. I use RO for the evaporation refills as well. SO WHAT THE HELL. I have used a soft brush to tickle or brush the top of the polyps and still no love. Also I use Part A and Part B when I do a water change and (5) iodine drops per instructions. no other chemicals are added

    Here is what I think is wrong. While saving up for new lighting. I am only using on this side where the polyps are a 22" 10K PC 2 row lights. So basically one buld with 2 white tubes of light. The other side I am using a smaller bulb but same setup. Directly 8-10" under the 22" bulbs is the Polyp. It is by itself with medium current. I think it might be the lighting but that is what you guys are her for.. Please help.

    OK I got the liquid testings and dumped the dipsticks. here is what I got.

    Water is .023 gravity
    Ammonia NH3/NH+4 = .50ppm
    High Range PH = between 8.0-8.2
    Nitrate (NO-2) = 0ppm
    Nitrate (NO-3) = 20ppm
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2007
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  3. Bruce

    Bruce Giant Squid

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    Hmmm, you are refering to the green star polyps correct? They do prefer higher lighting than most polyps...they get most of their energy from photosynthesis. Are you dosing strontium and molybdenum or any other trace elements? It might just be bad luck, I would wait untill you upgrade your lights before you buy anymore.

    Sometimes they are very odd like that...I have had a colony that just closes up and dies while the other colony doesnt. Good luck.
     
  4. sykes_33

    sykes_33 Astrea Snail

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    strontium and molybdenum

    What is this?
     
  5. Bruce

    Bruce Giant Squid

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    Those are just some other supplements that can be added to the tank. Kent Marine has a bottle with both. I am not sure if most people dose these, though.
     
  6. lunatik_69

    lunatik_69 Giant Squid

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    Hey sykes, you may want to get rid off those dip testers, they suck IMO. buy yourself a good tester and test all aspects of water parm( salt, ph, mag. nitrites, nitrates,alk,dkh, ammonia,cal, phos, silicates). lighting can/is a good part of thier " food " source like bruce said. how long has the tank been running? did you pass your cycle period.
     
  7. sykes_33

    sykes_33 Astrea Snail

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    How long is cycling? I am in my 5th month and over 5 water changes. Thank you for the input on the dip sticks.

    It's odd that thay say it's a hardy polyp and hardy for begginers and they are always the first to die in my underworld.
     
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  9. amcarrig

    amcarrig Super Moderator

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    As has been suggested, get better test kits. You're not blasting the polyps with too much water are you?
     
  10. sykes_33

    sykes_33 Astrea Snail

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    no, its barley a medium current going across the top. It is some what moving the mushrooms next to it. It appears to be a natural ocean current.