QT tank /Cycling

O.K. guys I have my 55 gl acrylic QT tank now to treat ich and need to decide how I'm going to do things. I've been flopping back and forth this morning over whether to keep the fish in the main tank and take out the corals and LR and sand as JohnO has suggested before, or put all of the fish in the 50 gl.and leave the rocks and coral in the main tank. They both have their benefits. I would have to find someone that could take care of a few of these corals for me especially my BTA that has gotten so large. I'm afraid that will be difficult to find someone around here and I know the one LFS won't help me out. I have a lot of rock (around 200lbs)and wont have room in the 50 gl for all of it.

If I leave the fish in the main tank at least I wont have to catch them however I would worry about them(and me) when I go to putting my rock back in especially with my attack clown and the foxface. Plus having to add 4 inches of new sand.Maybe I'd better stick with putting the fish in the 50. I don't want to be stung by the foxface while moving rock and stuff around once the QT is over. I'm allergic to enough things that I'd probably be allergic to it as well.

What do I do with all of my rock so that it doesnn't die? I have some nice corraline and don't want to loose it.

I have several rubbermaid tubs that i can use. I originally bought them for QT but wont need them now that I have the acrylic. Do I have to have a filter system for them as well. How do I take care of the rock?


Next questions! I have never cylcled anything before from scratch. My 120 gl i bought as an instant reef.

How do I go about cycling before I put any fish in there?

How long does it need to cyle before putting fish in since there will probably be no rock or sand in it?

How often do I have to do water changes?

If you could please, just start from the beginning for me. I will be using the hyposalinity treatment to treat the ich that I have. Maybe this will help some new people as well.

Thanks, Cindy

 

well if theres no sand or rock...it wont really matter how long...u will need to put some damsals in to start the bacteria growth or...maybe some live rock? im not sure

 

No damsels or LR.  Just use some raw shrimp tied up in an old nylon.  Put a good amount to build up enough dentrifying bacteria to handle all your fish.  Test for a good ammonia spike and then when you get through the nitrite phase add the fish.  You will need to test and change water/use Amquel until the bioload stabilizes.

Wear a good pair of long gloves and you won't have to worry about getting stung.

Get a cheap food grade plastivc bin and put enough salt water to hold your corals.  No need for it to cycle.  Remove your rock from the display into the holding tank.  Return your rock to the display after you've caught your fish.

Treat the fish in the QT with copper and let the display go for eight weeks before adding the fish back one at a time and from least aggressive to the most.

Catch your fish and place them in the QT

 

Aye you beat me too it Craig.  
Something beamer wrote in another thread got me thinking about QT Tanks. My experience is limited but I was pretty sure that you didn't want sand or live rock either. These will both adversely affect medication.

SO, thinking about it, I've been reading and by far the most informative article I've found on QT ins and outs is here (half way down it gets into setup):

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/index.htm

One interesting thing that stood out there -

If you are pressed for space and periodically breakdown your QT tank, he suggests running the biological filter on your main tank in between so when you are ready you can have a filter that is established.

Very good read - I'll add it to the links library now.

 

Very informative  link Matt I found it quite interesting and educational and I would recommend that everyone read it.. 8) ..................................................................... John

 

I have my QT set up and I read the same article at reefkeeping..very informative. No sand...no rock...maybe some pvc odds and ends for fish that like to hide. I didn't, but it would be a good idea to paint the outside bottom of the tank so the fish don't freak over the reflected light. For the light I used the light that came with the tank (20gal tank BTW)

I cycled with pure ammonia and it took about 7-8 days to get to 0 nitrites then a 50% water change to get the nitrates to less than 10ppm.

I put an aquaclear ext filter with sponge media in my main tanks sump and ran it for a couple of weeks ahead of time and then just put it in the QT and voila!! (no charcoal 'till after medication).

Drew

 

Hey Drew I have a question for you ;D What are you using for a filter in your QT tank? ................... John

 

Thanks for all of the good info and the link. Sounds like all of you use cooper for ich. I was planning on using the hyposalinity method. From what I have read it is just as effective without using the chemicals. I read that Tangs tend to have some type of gastrointestinal problem with cooper.

In the article he talks about using an air driven sponge filter. I do have a magnum 350, would that work o.k.?

Also, what about the packets of biological starter, can't remember the name of it, that you can get at the LFS? You just pour it into the tank. Would that be beneficial to use here. We used it on our nano at the office and it seemed to work fine. But of course we also use LR, water and coral from the main tank at home.

 

John

I am using an (Hagen) aquaclear hang on filter without charcoal. I put in two of the foam inserts and that is my biological and mechanical filter for now. That way I can rinse one of the foam blocks and still have one that has the bacteria in it and then rinse the other one the next time...not that there is that much to rinse out but I do get rid of any of the fish excretions that way.

One of the sponge block filters would work just as well but I had the filter any way and it is easy to deal with the filter cleaning.

If I was treating with No Ick or something I'll add a bag of charcoal after the treatment to remove any residuals..

As for medication I recommend the No Ick from fish-vet. I think I got it at Marinedepot or Premium Aquatics. It is reef safe but if you can get the fishies etc. out of the tank it is a good idea. The No-Ick is a good prophylactic for QT-ing new additions also and it breaks down fairly quickly after dosing. It is not a copper based med!!

Drew

 

Thanks Drew!
I'll have to check into the No Ich product. Is that something that I could use along with the hyposalinity treatments?

Cindy