Quarintine questions

Once I get my tank set up and running I need a quarantine up and running.

Which would work better a 10 gallon or 5 gallon or both?

Would a HOB filter work?
I saw a cool one that has a built in UV sterilization would that be of any benefit to have?

Do I need a light? I have a Marineland LED 11" light that has moonlights.

I was reading on the internet and read that a Q tank should be at 1.016 for 2 weeks, observing the fish closely.Monitor ammonia and alkalinity closely. Testing for ammonia 2 times per day for the first few days after adding a new fish. Then after 2 weeks if fish are healthy start raising SG by 10% a day till SG reaches 1.024.

Also read not to drip acclimate into the quarantine to just get fish bag temp to room temp and then put in Q tank.

Oh and another question would I Q the first batch of fish before putting them in the main tank or would it be alright to put them in main right away?

Any input would be great and I think I have asked all questions so far lol. Thanks in advanced to everyone who answers

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Which would work better a 10 gallon or 5 gallon or both?
-How big of fish are you going to put in your DT? What size is your DT? Either way, if you have room for a 10... go for it and forget the 5. I would consider a 20 long if you have a large DT and will get a tang or two in the future.

Would a HOB filter work?
-Qt tanks should be as simple as possible. A HOB filter is the recommended way. Also, keep it bare bottom and just put a few pieces of pvc pipe for the fish to hide.

Do I need a light?
- You can have a light, but it's not required (just make sure you can view your fish with a flashlight or something). No need for any UV.

I was reading on the internet and read that a Q tank should be at 1.016 for 2 weeks, observing the fish closely.
- I'm assuming they were talking about hypo. 1.016 is no where near a good hypo treatment. It should be at 1.008-1.009 to treat for parasites such as ich (you need a very accurate refractometer). I personally don't recommend this b/c if it gets to 1.011 you are pretty much nullified that treatment. You definitely do need to monitor for ammonia (a seachem ammonia alert works well), but I don't bother with alkalinity.
I personally treat all my fish proactively with cupramine (hypo or copper can be used for ich) b/c I've been through ich before in the DT.... not fun! Cupramine will also cover velvet, which hypo will not. One word of caution with cupramine, certain fish do not tolerate it well, so make sure to do your research first if you go this route.

Also read not to drip acclimate into the quarantine to just get fish bag temp to room temp and then put in Q tank.
- Here is what I do. Call fish store and ask them exactly the SG the fish is in. Set the QT tank to that. Buy the fish and bring it home and float it for 20 minutes. Open the bag and verify their SG matches what they told me. If it does I put the fish directly in QT.

Oh and another question would I Q the first batch of fish before putting them in the main tank or would it be alright to put them in main right away?
-Absolutely QT your first batch. If that first batch comes down with ich or velvet.... or anything really... you won't be able to do squat in your DT unless you don't mind killing all life on your live rock/sand. Also, only hypo would work in this matter as if you used copper, you will probably not ever be able to keep inverts.

I also only put 1 or 2 fish at a time in my QT tanks. Make sure you never introduce another fish in QT while treating another fish, otherwise you are back at square one in regards to my statements below.

Here is what I do
Week 1.) Get the fish eating well.
Week 2.) Treat with cupramine and get copper level around .4 over the course of a week. You will need a copper test kit (I use seachem's and it works well) NOTE: DO NOT use a dechlorinator with cupramine such as Prime. It binds with the copper and makes it into a lethal form for the fish.
Week 3.) Treat with prazipro (treats for flukes and other bacterial infections). I HIGHLY recommend this. You can use it with cupramine or hypo.
Week 4 - Week 6.) Watch fish closely. Total of 4 weeks in copper.
Week 8.) Get rid of the copper on first day of week 8 and watch.
Week 9.) Watch for 1 more week to make sure all fish are healthy.
Week 10.) Place fish in DT.

During this entire time, make sure ammonia levels are 0 and do water changes if needed! You don't need to worry that much about nitrite or nitrate in QT.
Also make sure to monitor your copper level and do not ever let it get above .5. You can seed your QT tank with a sponge you've had in your DT for pretty much an "insta" cycle.

Also, many people do not prophylacticly treat the fish unless they see a problem arise in QT. There is no right or wrong answer in regards to this, but above is just what I do. I feel it is more safe for the community once in the DT.

I highly recommend QT all fish and I commend you for doing this in the first place! I didn't and I regretted it lol!

 

I would go w/ 10 gallon just in case u pick up a pair of livestock.
No sand or rock.Lighting not to sure i would say fish no coral yes.
A heater of course a powerhead r pump, something that creates air and circulation.
I also recommend a pvc(elbow) pipe so the fish can have a place to hide.GL