Question about setting up sump/refuge

Hey everyone, first post here. Spent the last several days reading and searching around on the forum, seems like there are a lot of very knowledgeable people around here. ;D

Since searching around the forums, I've been introduced to the idea of running a sump and/or refuge, and it sounds like something I'd like to try. I currently have a 55gal FOWLR that I'm wanting to at some point get into some of the easier corals, but for now its just some fish and live rock. Since the tank is already established, I think drilling holes in the tank is a no go (plus I have no idea if this tank has tempered glass or not)

So what HOB prefilters do you guys suggest? I've been eying the following ones, but really don't know what I should be looking for.

CS90
LifeReef Slimline 600gph

Do you guys suggest purchasing a prebuilt sump tank? Or you think I could get away with a DIY out of a 20gal tank?

What kind of return pump would you suggest? I assume you want to match the prefilter flow to the return pump, so something around 600gph with the above prefilters?

Also, what happens when the power goes out? Its my understanding that the prefilters are basically syphoning water from your tank, if the power goes out and depending on how deep the prefilter sits in your main tank, couldnt it overflow your sump and cause a nice little flood?

Where do you run the return hose to? Just down into your tank (assuming as far away from the prefilter as possible) ? I'm thinking a random hose running into the tank will look a little ugly...

And finally, right now along with a cheap in-tank skimmer, I have a penguin 400 filter running in the tank. I'm thinking that with the live rock and live sand I have in the tank, that this may no longer be needed. You guys suggest pulling this out and watching my water params to see if my LR and LS will provide enough filtration?

Thanks guys!

 

gimme some time to read... I wouldn't suggest drilling.. yes, definitly not.
I ran a CPR overflow and tried to drill my 150 (I am experienced) and it blew out the bottom. The CPR worked awesome (with the syphin pump) and wasn't noisey at all.

 

As far as the flooding >> thats what the syphin pump is for. It sucks the air back out of the unit so it can resume suction. (and yes it does work and from experience with trying to go cheap >> get it cuz it will flood)

 

Finally, you need some kind of filtration. Most suggest not running the tank w/o a skimmer. Id leave it on for extra filtration if you have it already.
um, what else.... oh, your return >>
You can pipe it out with pvc so its cleaner and double 90* it or they sell black ones already made with a fanned tip.
OH, PUMP >> you have to take into consideration "head hight" your water will create back pressure and IMO its better to go over-sized and use a ball valve to tone it down and get maximum water flow to and from the tank.

 

and yes, like six said, you will want to leave ample room for drainage back into your sump/fuge. I test run it, pump it up, turn the power off and let it drain till it slurps air. fill your sump to a comforatable level where it wont spill and when you turn everything back on, let it pump up completely again till it drains and draw a line where the new water level is... that way you wont pump empty or over flow in a power out.

20 long is what I use for my sump. Its cheaper than buying one made and its a fun creative project (with patience)

 

I went through this same project 6 months ago to put in a fuge on my 72 gal. After looking for weeks at all the acrylic options I ended up setting up a DIY fuge, and saved tons of money.(Acrylic sumps and fuges are Soooo Expensive)

At first I was scared of overflows, but it's gone good so far.


I Ended up Using a 25 gal glass tank, buying some acrylic pieces from e-bay (as a kit that came with 2 acrylic pieces as baffles, 2 to hold lights, and a piece to hold the hose from the overflow) and using a mag 5 pump(for the return), with a cs 90 overflow. The overflow was the most expensive piece in the whole setup, Just make sure you buy a couple aqua lifters that connect to the top of the overflow to restart the suction if the power goes out(It also takes the bubbles that get trapped in the overflow out). I've had to replace 1 so far, but they are relatively cheap at $12 or $13 a piece.

I haven't had many other issues with the overflow itself, just have to clean the sponge once a week in the overflow, and I use a toothbrush occasionally to brush out the overflow itself to keep it clean.

I have only had a couple accidents, but all while I was working on the tank, so it was my fault, lol.. No other issues while we have been away. For instance during our recent power outage I put 5 hot water bottles into the DT to help keep the temp up, Not thinking to drain any water from the tank first so I overflowed the fuge a Little, lol The I found this out when I felt water on the floor since I was working by candle light and it was in the middle of the night. Didn't even hear the water draining into the fuge.

Another safety measure I put into place was having a pressure switch on my return pump, so if the water goes too low in the fuge the pump shuts off, ended up using a switch from blue line, purchased from Dr Fosters. So if for some reason the overflow fails all the water in the fuge will not get pumped into the DT and overflow it, and it won't burn out the pump either by running dry. I keep the water in the fuge just high enough,about a 1/2 inch over the shutoff point of the switch. I also replaced the suction cups on the switch with magnetic suction cups so they won't accidentially come off, the magnetic ones stay where you put em

It also tells you when to add evaporation water in a way, since it will shut off the main pump when the water lvl is to low, the water will drain back into the fuge, pump will turn back on lowering the fuge lvl then shut off again, and repeat over and over until you add water to compensate for the evaporation.

Then you know it's time for an auto Top Off

Good Luck

Hope it was helpful

Cat4wisson

 

One other thing, as for your question about filtration, Originally I had a Marineland 360 Canister filter, with a penguin dual power Wheel filter. I set up the fuge waited 3 months or so to let it age a bit, as well as letting the LR age a bit(120 lbs or so in DT), then I removed the Canister and haven't seen any issues yet filtration wise, water parameters seem pretty consistant. I've found that just as long as you have enough LR and enough circulation in the tank so you don't have any dead spots, the LR will act as a natural filter. So far I have kept the Penguin Power wheel filter mostly for running Carbon, gives you an easy place to add quite a bit when needed and it also helps to polish the water a bit of any large depris in the tank.

Only been in the hobby since Last May or so and still can't believe how many cords it takes to run a reef tank, so one less cord is allways welcome.

Good Luck

Cat4wisson

 

Is it recommended to use a ball valve to "tone down" the flow from a pump? Wouldn't that shorten the life on the pump? The pump would still be trying to pump its maximum flow rate, the only thing slowing it down would be resistance on the propeller from bottle necking the water.

Personally I think its a better idea to get one that will give you the flow you want without having to put a ball valve on it. If you over size you will be wasting electricity and shortening the life of your pump.

 

Welcome to 3reef. Do some search's as you will find answers to most of your questions and then some.
Drill the tank if you have the chance, just make sure it's not tempered glass. I used a CPR and if you neglect cleaning it you WILL have water on the floor.

Also always size your pump large so you can build a manifold off of it to run other things instead of having 3 and 4 pumps in your system. As stated before you can always back the pump down with a valve after the outlet but can't get more flow out of a small pump.