Quick Plumbing Questions

I just purchased a used 90 gallon tank off craigslist. I am now planning on re-plumbing the tank. The aquarium has two overflows drilled through the bottom. Currently, it just has simple pipes acting as overflows. Here is a super technical drawing showing how it is now:



I'm totally fine with overflows of piping (simpler = Better for me). However, I'd like them to be closer to the back (and or back corners) if possible since they are currently four inches or so off the wall... and are white.
My proposed solution (and, I haven't even measured to see if this is feasible with the room I have. More interested in getting feedback first). Is to use two 45 degree bends to angle the pipe back towards the back wall/back corners.

Would this create a huge amount of extra noise from the water?


If this isn't going to work well, I'll just end up replacing the white pipe with one that's black


Next quick question: Originally, the tank didn't have a return drilled. I have drilled a 3/4 inch return in the top center of the back. My plan is to use Lock-line. From the bulkhead, I'd get the threading to Loc-line adapter. From here I'd like to add a "Y". Do I need to get a segment of Loc-line to connect the adapter to the Y or will they connect together without it?

When I connect PVC together for the plumbing itself, is there any particular type of reef safe adhesive or anything I need to worry about?

 

So, you're saying you have two "naked" standpipes that don't have overflows around them? It will work as it stands, or if you go with the 45* angle, will likely reduce your outflow a bit, as the water will be making two 45* "turns", but it will still work.

Personally, I'd add overflows around the bulkheads and run Durso or Stockman type standpipes to reduce noise.

As for the adhesive, if you're going to use rigid PVC, just use regular PVC primer and cement. Be sure to lightly roughen the pipe and connectors where they mate, as this will make a better bond.

 

Correct, currently they're 2 "naked" pipes.

Thanks for the advice

 

ok, Decided to go with the Durso. I'm also going to call a local glass shop up and get some pieces cut to make overflows for each pipe.

Next question: Before I get to the standpipes and the overflow, I want to get the incabinet plumbing done.

However, I keep finding random pieces of advice as far as things to do or avoid when plumbing. These include: Don't let the water go straight down and avoid 90 degree corners if possible. Am I missing anything?

My current plan is the following: Place sump "entry side" in the front right hand corner of my stand. From the left overflow, I am going to use a 45 degree turn to angle the piping to the right and toward the front. On the right side I am going to use a 45 degree bend to bring the pipe from the back to the front.

Either before or after these turns (need to see how much room I have, and how the slope needs to be to hit the right spot on the sump, haven't measured yet) I am going to add a union so I can easily unscrew it all. The last step is a 45 degree downward angle at the end of the pipes into the sump, so the water enters straight down, and not at an angle (hoping this would reduce splashing/salt creep). Also I am considering putting in some ball valves prior to the unions.

So, list of purchases:
(2) 1 inch male threaded to slip adapters (bulk heads threaded)
(4) 1 inch 45 Degree Elbows
(2) 1 inch Unions (slip)
("x" feet) 1 inch PVC
(2) Ball Valves, 1 inch, slip if possible

Am I missing anything... or does that sound right?

 

You might want to look into TRUE UNION BALL VALVES instead of having separate unions with valves near them. I use them extensively in our setups, esp. in key places where I know I will need to "break" the lines.

For quietness, be sure you have your sump input pipe underwater just a bit, so it doesn't splash into the sump. OR, you can use a filter sock and let the water run thru it before it runs into the sump.

Personally, I usually use black, soft, thickwall tubing and threaded connections when I plumb most of our tanks. It's a lot more forgiving in terms of routing the plumbing, doesn't transfer vibration as readily, and is easy to make changes to if need be.

Here's an example of one system I did:





dual drain lines omitted for clarity: