Raising Live Brine Shrimp?

Discussion in 'Inverts' started by swinkreptiles, Jan 2, 2011.

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  1. swinkreptiles

    swinkreptiles Melanarus Wrasse

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    I have hatched 2 seperate batches of brine shrimp with no problems until day 3 when they lose their egg sacks. I have heard to feed them white wheat mill or egg yolk, but I have had no luck with this. Anyone ever raised them to the adult stage b4? What did you feed them?
     
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  3. con999

    con999 Corkscrew Tentacle Anemone

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    egg yolk???????? who told you that it dosent seem right at all. i would try green water
     
  4. swinkreptiles

    swinkreptiles Melanarus Wrasse

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  5. grinder37

    grinder37 Whip-Lash Squid

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    After hatching,you want to seperate the hatchlings from the egg shells,the shells float and the larve will swim to the bottom of the container after the airstone is turned off,siphon them out with airline tubing into another container for growing out into fresh brinewater (i use 1/2 water from my reef tank and mix with equal amount of rodi to make brine)I have heard of people using egg yolk,but i allways used bakers dry yeast,and what ever amount you would use to feed them,only use half that much,after about 8 days,you can use flake food crumbed to dust for feeding.I've had pretty good luck that way.
     
  6. rayjay

    rayjay Gigas Clam

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    Brine shrimp will ingest any food appropriately sized for their digestive system at time of feeding.
    Over the years, many people have used many foods in raising them.
    Consider though, that you are wanting to use the brine shrimp as food for something else, and the quality of food you feed to the brine shrimp is directly affecting the quality of the brine you feed to whatever you are feeding the brine to.
    Newborn nauplii cannot feed until they reach the second instar stage where their digestive tracts are completed. In hobby systems it is generally going to be about a day after hatch out where they can feed.
    Feeding algae cultures works fine, but for best nutrient results you need several different algae to use, and involving yourself in growing these secondary cultures of algae.
    Feeding inert food works, but as mentioned most don't really do much for the nutrition going to the end user.
    You can feed any inert food they will ingest and then enrich the artemia before using them as food, but by far the best results come from feeding an appropriate food while they are growing, and then enrich them as well.
    In my case, I start the day old nauplii on nannochloropsis for a few days and then switch to using the economical spirulina powder from Brine Shrimp Direct.
    Spirulina is an excellent nutritious food for feeding the brine shrimp, but again, for best results, enrich them (gut load some call it) with a proper medium, the best to date being Dan's Food with/without Beta Glucan from seahorsesource.com.
    Crashing a brine shrimp culture almost always is a result of insufficient aeration or nasty bacteria that wipe them out, or at least leaves a drastic reduction in their numbers.
    By far the best way to help the bacteria problem is to start with good cysts that have been properly stored in refrigeration, not on a shelf or hook in an LFS, and then decap the cysts before hatching them.
    It is not advisable to use any used water to hatch and or grow out the brine shrimp as you might be introducing further bacteria for them to absorb.
    The bleach in the decap process helps to control bacteria problems, followed by proper rinsing and sometimes treating with hydrogen peroxide if extremes are needed.
    Decapping also eliminates the chances of unhatched or empty cysts lodging in and blocking the digestive tracts of smaller fish.
    Separating the live from the waste after hatchout is simpler as well.
    The cheapest safe way to culture them is in water made up of sodium chloride (I use water softener sodium chloride) mixed 10 parts to one part of epsom salts, diluting it to 1.017 in my own systems. (they will hatch and grow in a VERY wide range of salinity)
    For those living in the US, it's definitely much easier to purchase live brine from livebrineshrimp.com instead of growing them, unless like myself, living in Canada I can't have them shipped to me.
    If you still want to grow them out, you can view my artemia page and tailor it to suite the numbers you wish to grow for your own, and there are links at the bottom of the page to other artemia information that is factual and not filled with misinformation that certainly occurs for artemia.
    RAISING BRINE SHRIMP (ARTEMIA) TO ADULT
     
  7. swinkreptiles

    swinkreptiles Melanarus Wrasse

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    So after reading that you can feed phyto to them, I have a bottle of Kent Marine PhytoPlex. Would this work in feeding?

    Thanks BTW, that was very helpful!
     
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  9. rayjay

    rayjay Gigas Clam

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    You can use it but it's an awful expensive way to feed brine shrimp, and they still need to be enriched afterwards for best results.
     
  10. swinkreptiles

    swinkreptiles Melanarus Wrasse

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    IYO whats the best thing to feed that you dont have to order.
     
  11. rayjay

    rayjay Gigas Clam

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    I have to order whatever I use from there in the US because I have no source for what I want here in Canada.
    I use spirulina powder from BSD that I make a solution of and add small amounts to the cultures of brine. I order the enrichment from seahorsesource.com.
    Back about 15 yrs ago I used brown rice flower to grow them. I mixed it in a blender with water and poured through a 53 micron mesh to remove the larger particles and then the result was stored in the refrigerator to add to the culture containers, same as what I do now with the spirulina powder.
    Back then the only enrichment I had was Selco emulsions, which don't store well and are only the fatty acids so I've replaced that with the Dan's Food now which stores much better and is a balanced formula for enrichment.
    What's the problem with ordering? You won't find a better source than those two places, especially at an LFS.
    I order from both those places and have no problems with them over the years.
    My only problem is customs at the border where bureaucrats screw up everything and it takes 10 to 13 days to get an overnighted package.
     
  12. project1

    project1 Spaghetti Worm

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    iv fed the ones i buy fish flake food they go crazy for it