Reducing pipe size in overflow

Discussion in 'Filters, Pumps, etc..' started by JetEngineMech, Aug 1, 2008.

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  1. JetEngineMech

    JetEngineMech Feather Duster

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    I just received my eshopps PF-300 and couldn't believe how large the threaded fitting was! I need to go down to a 3/4" hose. I tried going to the hardware store but because of the unthreaded end on the fitting, the coupling wouldn't screw on. Is there another way to reduce that down to 3/4"?
     
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  3. PharmrJohn

    PharmrJohn The Dude

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    Instead of using the threaded end as a male, use it as a female. Just shove a piece of pvc in there and cement it in with pvc cement and primer. That's what was done with mine. Worked great. From there, the sky's the limit.
     
  4. Jason McKenzie

    Jason McKenzie Super Moderator

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    Is the inside threaded? if not you could glue a straight piece of PVC that can be reduced

    If you didn't want to do that you could just down size the piece using multiple reducers

    J
     
  5. JetEngineMech

    JetEngineMech Feather Duster

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    Hmm, I'll look into that idea, gluing a piece to the inside. I tried the multi-reducer idea, but i can't get a piece on far enough to start it. The fitting I have isn't threaded all the way to the end. The last 1/4" or so is unthreaded.
     
  6. Reeron

    Reeron Blue Ringed Angel

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    Here's how I did mine.

    [​IMG]

    That pipe is just regular 1 inch pvc glued to the inside of the bulkhead. Don't worry about the coupler on the end. That's only there because of a mistake I made ( glued elbow on before putting retaining nut on bulkhead :dunce: ). You can see the elbow on the other half of the pipe (up in the top-right corner of the picture).
     
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  7. Tangster

    Tangster 3reef Sponsor

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    Simply get a 1x3/4 bushing and glue it up inside the bulkheads like in the photo above , It looks like a 1" bulkhead But why not just take 1" all the way to the sump ? Oh the reason you could not thread any plumbing adapter is that shank of the bulkhead is not a Pipe thread but a machine thread you have to get an electrical conduit adapter that will screw right up on it if you want to use an adapter. On a Plumbing thread the male and female of cut on opposite angles so that they wedge up tight into each other where as a Machine thread is a straight cut thread like a Bolt or a toilet ballcock valve or a faucet shank .
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2008
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  9. Reeron

    Reeron Blue Ringed Angel

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    Tangster's right. You should go 1 inch all the way to the sump. The larger the pipe's diameter, the better.

    It looks like you have a 3/4 inch hose for your drain line. You should have gone with a 1 inch hose, as that 300gph rating is with a 1 inch line. A 3/4 inch line only has 56% of the volume of a 1 inch line, so you'll be limited to about 169 gph. Won't take much of a return pump to exceed that number (you're going to have to restrict the flow on the return pump).

    I'm currently using a 1 inch drain line and a 3/4 inch return line. Doing it this way allows me to run the pump wide open without exceeding the drain line's ability to bring water to the sump.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2008
  10. MTips18

    MTips18 Purple Spiny Lobster

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    if you want it to look real good you could get a slip fit bulk head thats what i did with mine i got it for like five or six bucks at glass-holes.com
     
  11. Tangster

    Tangster 3reef Sponsor

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    If he has the same bulkeads as the picture reerun posted they are slip bulkheads. I'd not reduce them to 3/4 myself
     
  12. Reeron

    Reeron Blue Ringed Angel

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    Why buy a another bulkhead? That 1 inch pvc pipe cost me about 2 dollars and was 5 feet long. And the inside of that bulkhead is a 1 inch slip-fit connection anyway.


    Edit: Damn, Tangster, you beat me to it. You're fast.