reef keeper lite?

Discussion in 'General Reef Topics' started by Kevin_E, Aug 28, 2013.

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  1. Kevin_E

    Kevin_E Giant Squid

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    Will I be able to use a high water float switch to cut of the return in the case of a potential flood scenario?

    Can you run lighting on it without a timer?

    Can you run a auto top off using a fliot switch, aqualifter and another highwater float? I.e. cut off aqualifter if water gets too high.

    Can you run power heads like a wave maker without needing a wave maker. I.e can I run koralias on a power oscillating setting?

    Thank you.
     
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  3. Ralphj

    Ralphj Plankton

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    I can answer only 2 questions, you cannot run lighting on without timer, unless you switch on and off yourself on daily basis.

    I think that you can use a power head instead of a wavemaker.
     
  4. vtecintegra

    vtecintegra Fire Worm

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    Will I be able to use a high water float switch to cut of the return in the case of a potential flood scenario?

    -Yes, but you need a module like the SW5 that has switched inputs for the float switch.

    Can you run lighting on it without a timer?

    -Yes, you can turn lights on and off on your own without using a timer.

    Can you run a auto top off using a fliot switch, aqualifter and another highwater float? I.e. cut off aqualifter if water gets too high.

    -Yes, with SW5.

    Can you run power heads like a wave maker without needing a wave maker. I.e can I run koralias on a power oscillating setting?

    -Yes, build in. My koralias made a loud enough click I could hear that I didn't like though. I'd research and find something quieter.
     
  5. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    Yes to all. Some will require an additional module besides the PC4 outlet strip but the lights and the powerheads will work on the PC4.
    I would recommend Hydor Evolutions powerheads, not Koralias which were not designed to be switched on and off constantly. I have over 2 million starts on stops on a pair of Evo 1400's before retiring them for a couple new Jebao WP-25's and have no complaints with the Evos other than the early models front cover issues which were replaced free of charge under the two year warranty. The design has been improved now so should not be an issue anymore.

    I have two PC4 outlet modules, an SL1 switch module and a MLC moonlight controller module on mine and it has been a great device for over 5 years now.
     
  6. pja24

    pja24 Bristle Worm

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    Agree with previous replies. A question do you own a lite? If not you may want to opt. For the elite. From your questions sounds like you'll out grow the lite quickly. I purchased lite and also quickly out grew it. You'll see with a controller the options are endless. FWIW.
     
  7. Mrhighline

    Mrhighline Fire Shrimp

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    If your gonna spend that kinda $$ might want to look at the Apex as well. I have a RKL on my frag tank but I just run the heater and Halides with it ...
     
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  9. Kevin_E

    Kevin_E Giant Squid

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    Welp, I clipped a tree today with my brand new Ram 1500. Looks like the reef controller idea will be shelved for a bit.

    Thank you all for the tidbits. I'll respond in more depth tonight.
     
  10. RoloSaez

    RoloSaez Millepora

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    Awe that sucks! Sorry to hear that.
     
  11. Kevin_E

    Kevin_E Giant Squid

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    Thanks!
     
  12. Kevin_E

    Kevin_E Giant Squid

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    I want to revisit this:

    If I went with the RKL (ReefKeeper Lite Basic - Digital Aquatics - Bulk Reef Supply

    What would I need to control a float switch to cut off the return pump if water in the display tank rises?

    Same with temperature? Do I just need a heater to control the temperature where I want it? (say 79)

    What about salinity? Can I set to stay at 1.026 (i.e. inject water when it begins to drop) or or does it only control the float? What do I need?

    For the powerhead, I have a Koralia Evo 1400. I can set this up to pulse? What do I need?

    Thanks!