Return pump question

Discussion in 'Filters, Pumps, etc..' started by nightster, Oct 8, 2010.

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  1. K3rack

    K3rack Peppermint Shrimp

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    Try pump -> vinyl tubing -> ball valve -> PVC (or whatever else you are using) to the display. The tubing between the PVC ball valve and pump reduced the vibrations. I ended up redoing mine and it made it much more quiet.
     
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  3. nightster

    nightster Pajama Cardinal

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    Didn't think I was supposed to have a ball valve from pump to display...
     
  4. K3rack

    K3rack Peppermint Shrimp

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    That is a must because you can regulate the speed the display drains to the sump. So if you want more flow in your sump and display, you open the valve. The overflow box will only drain as fast and the pump pumps water to it.
     
  5. nightster

    nightster Pajama Cardinal

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    Yea i realized what I said after I posted...
     
  6. jonjonwells

    jonjonwells Great Blue Whale

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    He is correct. You want to put the ball valve on the return to the display tank. You do not want any restrictions on the feed from the overflow to the sump.

    I would go with a Maxi-Jet utility pump. They are super quiet, run forever and have a much better warranty. Only pumps I use anymore.... internal anyways.
     
  7. nightster

    nightster Pajama Cardinal

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    Maxi-jet 1100 or the 1800? I could use the ball valve to turn down the 1800...
     
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  9. jonjonwells

    jonjonwells Great Blue Whale

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    I used a MJ3000 to give me 300GPH at almost 5ft of head. You just need to figure your head and check the flow charts. Marine Depot has it in the specifications tab.... i think.
     
  10. K3rack

    K3rack Peppermint Shrimp

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    Yep. Just match as close as you can and don't overdue it because it's just a waste of money and restricting it more might have a negative impact, maybe.
     
  11. gazog

    gazog Kole Tang

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    Yea, I would go with the 3000 also, better a little to much than not enough. And you can turn it down with the valve if needed. I always go with a slightly bigger pump that I really need, for a couple of reasons, first off, just like I said better a little to much. And most pumps are built today so that you valve them down, in fact some of the bigger ones actully save you electicity as you valve them down.

    Second I don't know about you but I have finally faced the fact, this hobby is just like boating, in boating there is a disease called 2 footitis, everyone wants a boat 2 feet bigger that the next guy.

    In this hobby every time I set up a tank it isn't big enough so I want a bigger one, and if I buy a pump a little bigger that what I really need, it should work for the next couple of tanks as I go bigger.....
     
  12. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    Always go with a slightly larger pump than you anticipate needing, the head loss is often more than you originally thought once you add in fittings like elbows and barbed connectors, the inside diameter of the pipe or tubing and fittings and elevation changes between the water surfaces. Almost all pumps and certainly all centrifugal pumps used in this hobby draw less power when the flow is restricted since they are not being required to do as much work. It has to do with is called the Laws of Affinity.
    Always install a ball or gate valve on the discharge side of the pump and its wise to increase the piping at least one size up from the pumps outlet size too, this can help the pump tremendously by reducing head due to friction. Mag recommends this in all their literature as do some other manufacturers. Never install a tee and valve and flow back to the sump as this actually increases power requirements since you are pumping more water even though it is not needed. It can also lead to heat and microbubble problems. Never restrict the suction or inlet side of a pump, always the discharge.