Reverse durso issues..

Okay, heres what I am going to try. I have labeled the diagram in the OP so that each pipe has a letter.

I am going to first extend the length of tube F, so that it goes down lower in the tank.

If that doesn't work, then I am going to drill holes in the side of tube F. I have read that this helps to quiet/calm the water and forces/allows more air to be released from the top.

Next, I may try extending the length of tube D. I'm not sure if this is really logical, but I read that the higher it goes the better. I suppose this will give more room for the air to go up. The water is probably splashing up there, and pushing the air back down.

It isn't really sensible to alter the size of the hole at the top, because this move isn't reversible. I do not have a spare cap lying around. Since the cap is not permanently on there, I can take it on and off, cover part of the hole, etc. to simulate different hole sizes. Additionally, there is a valve on the drain pipe (pipe A). So I will also play around with that after each alteration.

Advice is still welcomed in the meantime though!

 

If you can't use larger diameter PVC for part E I like increasing the length of D and F and drilling holes into F.

 

Yes I read that and incorporated that idea. My understanding was that it gave the water some room to calm down before it exits the pipes. It is 1" PVC coming from the overflow. It is converted to 2" PVC at the Y. In the diagram, I used the color grey to represent 1" PVC and blue to represent 2" PVC.

 

OK, I think your next steps are logical and good.

 

Okay, we have progress. Extending the length of F showed a major improvement. I must say, its hard to get a good shot of bubbles, but I did my best. You can see a major difference:

Before:


After:


This level of bubbles isn't silent, but acceptable. With the doors closed (when we finish the doors for the stand) it will probably be silent. It isn't splashing (due to the bubbles) anymore either. I also extended the length of tube D, but this provided no benefit (or change whatsoever).

However, we aren't home-free yet. I am now able to hear the water splashing around in the Y fitting, which before was partially masked by the noise of the bubbles. I am thinking that drilling some holes in tube F may help this, as it will allow more room for the water to actually escape. We will find out.

One last thought.. According to AZDesertRat's writeup on bulkhead installation, it is a bad idea to use a bulkhead to support the weight of the plumbing. Any ideas on a mechanism support the weight of this bulky apparatus?

 

Good to hear things are better. Use a plumbing strap to hold the apparatus to the the stand.

 

Is this what you mean by a plumbing strap?
http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/2550/255038_300.jpg

Or maybe you meant something like this?
http://www.plumbest.com/media/catal...78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/H/1/H13-038.jpg

If so, I am not quite sure how I would use either of these. Could you explain in a little more detail? I labeled the pipes in the image above to make it easier to individually reference them.

 

Either will work or a combo possibly.

The first one is used for hanging pipe and the second is used for anchoring pipe to something.