RO/DI and Top Off Setup - Insight Needed

So the diagram below is how I have my RO/DI unit setup. I still havent gotten the float valves and hoses installed, but thats how it will be shortly Due to the low availability of space elsewhere, all of this happens in the loft which is actually conveniently located directly above my tank...so at least gravity can help a bit. I just have to over-plan in the event of a failure in the water making/changing/top off process.

My first question lies with the red line in the diagram directly after the float valve for my clean water storage container. Im assuming this is where I will install my pressure switch that controls the power to my boost pump, correct?

My second question is, how reliable are the float valves that come with the BRS auto shutoff systems? The one I received looks to be well made and I did order a few more for backups, but Id also like to use one in my sump for my auto top off system that is separate from the RO/DI system. Ill be making water once a week, so during that time Ill just add water to the 10 Gallon container as well and let gravity do the work keeping the water level. The only thing that concerns me is if that float valve fails, 10 gallons on the floor doesnt seem like a lot...but in a 2nd floor apt. it would be bad.

Anyways, thats what Ive got going so far. Sorry this is all so jumbled. Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

The key to a successful auto top off that doesn't ruin your floors is redundancy. First thing I would do is I would get an electronic float switch instead of a float valve. For a pump I would use a tom's aqua lifter pump because at 3 gph it isn't going to cause a huge problem fast. Next I would put the pump on a timer so it could only run for a little longer than it takes to replenish evaporated water. Finally I would make sure my top off reservoir does not hold more water than my sump has space.

Also tom's aqua lifter pumps are good because they don't burn up if you run them dry.

EDIT: Oh and sorry I couldn't really answer your main questions. I don't need a boost pump at my house, and I have never hard a BRS auto top off system.

 

So if I understand this right, it should be setup where even if the water drops it wont be able to fill up until the timer comes on. That makes sense, how long do you think would be appropriate for the timer? Is it better to have it set for a few minutes every hour or longer times (20-30min) every 4-5 hours or so? I definitely like the idea of using the solenoid...Ill probably try to figure out a way to do that and use the float if possible....Id like to have an extra, extra line of defense...hah. As for the resivoir not holding more than my sump has available Ill have a hard time...I dont have a ton of available room under the tank for a sump...the current is only 11g and Im planning on remaking one out of a 10g...such a headache...hah

Thanks for the response, its definitely appreciated!

 

Those are all great suggestions given by stepho. The one thing I'll add is that while redundancy is a good thing, it takes a bit of creativity to implement it well. Redundancy with 2 components always beats redundancy with 3 components--providing the two scenarios accomplish the same end.

Have a look at this. Very simple, very safe, redundant.

 

Float switches are much more reliable than a float valve. How many toilet or swamp cooler floats have you seen fail, myself I have seen and replaced a lot of them over the years.
I also find solid state pressure sensors to be bulletproof.
You might take a look at the level controllers on sale at the top of the page here:
SpectraPure Customer Appreciation SALE! 20% - 50% off
I use the Ultra Precise controller myself and it has multiple levels of redundancy and safeguards. The level sensor uses a small clear tube attached to a solid state pressure sensor. The included pump is the same as the LiterMeter so is very reliable with years and years of usage in the industry. It also includes a back up high level emergency float switch as a safety. The pump can be programmed so it only fills at certain rates so it could be impossible to overfill in a given time too.

My ATO reservoir which is connected to my RO/DI and is controlled by float switches, a solenoid valve and an ASOV valve which allows me to set the start and stop levels a good distance apart to reduce the effects of TDS creep inherent with all RO/DI systems.

 

Thanks for the added responses guys. ReefSparky, that was an awesome writeup! After some extra thinking I think Ill definitely find a location on the same floor as the tank as opposed to up in the loft. This way I can do something with a switch/pump/timer as suggested. I like the kit that SpectraPure sells, but IMO its not worth the cash to spend that much when I can buy similar parts much cheaper lol. I think Ill end up going with Stepho's recommendation of the Toms pump/timer and switch and also a float valve if I can figure it out. I also think Ill go with a 5 gal tub instead of 10 and just have one on standby to switch in, just in case. Does anyone know of a good spot to buy just a pressure switch? Are there aquarium safe versions, or does any switch work fine?

Thanks again everyone!