RO/DI Filter Change???

So I recently ordered some replacement filters for my aquasafe canada RO/DI System. When I removed my sediment filter today, I noticed the filter is just as white and clean as when I put it in last year this time....

Should I still change my filters? My tap water has only 3-4TDS on any given day.

Just wondering if people with low TDS tap water get longer use out of their filters?

 

How many gpd is it? I have one for 100gpd and I make about that much every 6 months or so. So it's going to last a lot longer then normal. ( small tank) so I guess it all depends on how much your actually using it.

 

Do you have a pressure gauge?

 

your tap is only 3 or 4 ?? where do you live? ..that is incredible....mine is about 120'ish and I know some folks that are in the 600's..wow...it is relative, I would say your filters should last a long time...I have been testing the bottled water that my wife always buys...they test anywhere from 11 to 35 TDS....the cheaper the water the lower the reading....but, wow....you got some good water there !
I change mine every 6 months just like I do for the RO system in the house...need it or not...they are cheap enough.

 

wow, aren't you Mr. Lucky with 3 tds... i would guess you wouldn't need to, but i would let the pros chime in before taking my opinion to the bank.

 

You need a pressure gauge, or two to test for head loss due to plugged filters.

Its not really a good idea to put off sediment and carbon block changes as they are there to protect the most expensive part, the membrane, the workhorse of the system.

In your case you have extremely clean water, not found very often today unfortunately, so you could probably extend the changes if you monitor presure drop across the filter array and chlorine breakthru. A low range chlorine test kit is pretty inexpensive too from places like Spectrapure.

Since all water passes through the sediment can carbon filters, including the waste, you need to keep on top of their conditions. For most of us the 6 month filter replacement rule applies but you are an exception but make sure to monitor them on a regular basis. You don't want exhausted carbon passing chlorine to the membrane and melting it. Or lower pressure due to plugging of either the sediment or carbon lowering your removal efficiency and shortening the DI life, not really an issue in your case here either!

 

With 3-4 TDS why even bother with a RO unit (I have more TDS after my RO membrane than you do before it)? Just use a DI canister and call it a day.

 

Thanks everyone for the responses. so where would the pressure gauge go, to measure the loss due to plugged filters? after the last carbon block before the membrane?

 

I'm sure you will get a solution to your issue here soon, but I am going to suggest to you, going to Bulk Reef Supply web site, if you have not already, and watch the videos they have (video section)..it is very informative and easy to watch...they keep it simple...might not have what you are looking for..but if your like me, I just like listening to all the different videos on all the products they have..basically, if they sell it, they describe its installation and usage....a lot of real good stuff. jmo

 

The pressure gauge goes after the carbon block, hopefully you only have one as you do not need two, and before the RO membrane. Extra carbons are a waste of money and a single 0.5 or 0.6 micron 20,000 gallon carbon block will outperform several lesser carbons with less stress on the membrane. Every filter you add in front of the membrane has an associated head loss you must deal with, the fewer the cartridges the better so shop wisely for good filter replacements.