RO/DI question

correct, the float releases the pressure on the four way valve and both ro/di and waste water are activated. when the pressure is re-introduced by the float reaching maximun height the system is deactivated. supply and demand.

 

Awesome! Thanks guys!!!!!!!

 

OK...sorry if I seem a little dense on this...its the 4 way valve that has me f'd up...I have a line to my drain...I have a line to my "exit" or sump...and I have a line coming in ( and the TDS in there also)...what does the 4 way valve do that is not already being done?
Thanx,
LG

 

I don't have mine set up to my sump yet, and don't even use a float valve yet, but that's how I thought it would work. However, I have a 1/4 turn shutoff valve on my RODI water outlet from my DI canister, and if the water pressure is on and the shut off valve is closed, then waste water routed around my RO membrane runs into the drain pipe.
I only had it on for a minute, and didn't open and close the valve, so I may not have tested it correctly.
So either: my asov isn't working right or isn't plumbed in correctly, or it's supposed to work like that the waste water will always flow when there is water pressure in the RODI unit. But it seems like this would shorten the life of the sediment and charcoal filters the waste water must pass through...it does, however divert the water to waste before using the more expensive RO membrane and DI resin.

But to my point... that contraption that reef guru posted up is nothing more than $150 spent on 2 manual floats with electrical switches on them that send voltage/signal to the control solenoid that opens/closes another valve of the top off water inlet. Why all this jazz when one mechanical float can do the same job in a more simple manner?

 

kewl...I get it.
I do have a shut off to RO/DI unit on the "in" line...so...If I'm not using it...I can just shut it down...thus saveing my filters?..and water...but when I have it installed ...this "contraption" will do the "saveing" automatically..... $150.00 you must me joking ! ?
BTW...If you shut it down for any extended amount of time...then it will get funky,thus damaging the filters, I've been told...just another fly in the oatmeal...
LG

 

ive had them on my systems for years with no malfunctions, thats why.

 

Nope, still $150 and it won't save your waste water. I heard that too that the water will get funky, so I run mine for 5 minutes every weekend I don't do a w/c to flush it out. I have a shut off between the tap water supply and inlet too, so I just turn that off when I'm not using it, and good to go. Maybe adding another ASOV somewhere in the system can shut off the waste water with the supply water pressure left on. I will definitely need to spend 20 minutes looking into that and checking my sources...

 

i would strongly not suggest this

side note:
would you rather pay 10k for a mercedes or 1 dollar for a vw bug? oh, wait you need to be old enough to drive, lol.
sorry dude, i had to.

 

That's like saying I've owned a Ferrari and never had a transmission problem with it, and that's why you should buy a Ferrari and not a Toyota.
I just can't agree with you here based on what I know so far, reef guru.

So does that mean that all the mechanical float shut offs are faulty and will malfunction at some point, while your's never will?

The way I see it, that system has 6 potential failure modes:
2 mechanical float potential failure modes (both high water level and low water level floats), floats sticking, etc...
2 electrical switch potential failure modes (one for each float)
1 solenoid malfunction/ potential failure mode
1 electrical supply potential failure mode (power loss)

The mechanical float shut off has one potential failure mode, which makes it a simpler and safer design, if it is made of good quality. That's my choice as of now.

 

I'm 28, what kind of car do you drive? Sorry, I had to go there.