RO/DI water filter or Puget Sound?

I'm in the process of building my first reef tank and I'm thinking that I will want to buy an RODI filter system for generating my tank water. I had some questions about how they work. I've been looking at the 100gpd ones that "purewater club" is selling on ebay. So how exactly do the logistics of these filters work? Do you need to have a holding tank on both ends of the system as storage? Or do you attach one end to the tap and place the output in a bucket. Is it something you can set up and let run all day (in order to make the 100gpd) or do you need to supervise the process.

How do most of you set up and run your systems? Is an RODI filter an absolute must? I'm on the city of Seattle's water system which has high quality water, but I don't know about things like silicates or phosphates etc. Alternatively, I live across the street from Puget Sound so I have a source of readily accessible sea water, even though its salinity is a bit low and would need to be brought up (28 ppt, don't know what that equals in SG). Anyone here use natural sea water?

Thanks!

 

Welcome to 3Reef, Calawah!!

IMO an RO/DI system may not be an absolute must, but not using one adds too many variables to an already fragile equasion. Having been without one for more than 20 years and fighting algae every step of the way; I have to say that now--I'll never again be without an RO/DI unit. The way I have mine "wired up" is using a hose bib adapter in my laundry room off a Y. Off the main water line is the Y. One end goes to my washing machine, the other is the inlet to the RO/DI system. My unit comes with an ASOV (auto. shut off valve) without it, when there isn't RO/DI water being produced, there's still waste water running down the drain--not good.

I got mine from airwaterice.com, who states they designed this ASOV about 6 years ago and have yet to have a problem with one, having sold thousands of them.

I purchased a float valve too, but I haven't yet drilled into my sump to install it. I simply plumbed the line out to my aquarium, and each night I turn a T valve, and let 'er rip for about 10 min's until about a gallon of topoff RO/DI water is produced. I let it stream into my sump, since it's a high flow area. I'm very happy with the arrangement. So are my fish and corals, apparently; although they haven't said so specifically.

To address some of your other questions; No, you don't have to have a holding tank on either end. I don't use one. You could get one, though--it would allow you have a few gallons on reserve and be able to dispense it as though it were coming out of your faucet. The downside is they're about $60 for the smallest unit, about 3.2 gallons.

Additionally, you could let your system rip all day into a 55 gal drum for water changes and the like, but a float valve installed into that drum (or bucket) would allow the event to be an unsupervised one.

Whatever you do, try to keep us posted with pictures. We love 'em!!

 

I've got the one from pure water club. it's a good filter the out(orange tube goes into your drain and the white to the tank and the red is incoming water to the filter. the white one that goes to the tank is right now in the pics sitting in the drain line. I store it there until I use it) here's pics of my set up











I really wish I had bought the one with the tank.....it's simple to use and (IMO)pretty inexpensive to replace the cartridges. I used mine for a full year b4 I changed them.

I have had several questions about it and have asked them, but I never get a reply...

 

the sea water close to shore isnt good enough for your tank, to many pollutants. a ro/di system from your tap would work better in the long run. could also put a aatoc from the ro/di, heres a site
Reef-Relief :: Automated Aquatic Top Off Controller

heres the two i have, with the ro/di unit a tds meter is almost a must, its the blue box.