Seahorses and Protein skimmer

I have a 30gallon tank.. and some reef.. 2 kuda seahorsess and 14 astrea snails.. as a filter i use Tetra Wisper EX30 and have roughly 20pounds of live rock..

Now my question is: are protein skimmers necessary for seahorses as they dont always finish all the food and it flies around my tank.. or stays under the rock/sand..I try not to add so much food but there is always leftovers.. I give them half a square of frozen mysis shrimp..my ammonia level is a little bit going up but not dangerous

Also will protein skimmer pick up the poop from the snails? couze they are pooping all over the tank.. they are making more mess then they clean

Finally, I was looking at Coralife Super Skimmer for 65gallons.. if anyone has experience with that skimmer would love to hear a feedback

 

Skimmers are not a necessity but they sure make things more forgiving for any tank.
ANY ammonia in a seahorse tank is bad, even minute amounts, as it burns the gills.
Unless you have a good sand bed, 20 lbs of rock is not anywhere near enough for the biological filter, especially if you are not vacuuming up daily.
A protein skimmer helps to remove dissolved organics which are part of the resultant decay of uneaten food and fish/snail feces.

 

ammonia

And the protein skimmer will lower the ammonia level?

 

No, the skimmer removes dissolved organics which are produced along with ammonia by the decay process, your biological filter processes ammonia.
A sand bed also provides surface area for biological filtration, and, a refugium with macro will consume ammonia as food for the macro.
You need to do water changes and remedy the source of your ammonia which is too much food left in the tank and too little biological filtration available at this time.
You can vacuum out all the food, making sure you get it all out from around/under the rock or anything else that may be trapping it. Use a turkey baster or extra power head or whatever it takes.
Short term you can even dump in some ClorAm-X or Prime or their equivalent, to stop the gill burning, until you have things under control again.
I know nothing of your filter so I don't know it's capabilities but it's obvious that the filter and rock were not capable of handling the drastic loading placed on the system, at least in the short term and most likely long term also.
Do you have a sand bed of any depth?
How long has the tank been running?
How long since the seahorses were put in the tank?
Do you have a sump? Refugium?
You could do with another 25 pounds of quality live rock if you don't have a sump and/or refugium. That is, live rock that is extremely porous and lightweight compared to average pieces. Hand picking is the best way to go.
The lighter more porous pieces provide a lot more surface area for the beneficial bacteria to grow on.
A reasonable depth sand bed can also help as a biological filter as many hobbyists have, but I personally prefer to have bare bottom tanks and vacuum them daily.
You can also make an overflow, even if it's on a DIY PVC one, and hook up a 20g sump. Then you can put most of the rock in the sump, leaving the tank with less obstacles to cleaning excess food and detritus.
By the way, I'm so happy that you have been taking the time to check for ammonia as many never do and don't know why their horses founder.
A properly set up tank meant for seahorse keeping wouldn't normally have ammonia, but not every one knows the stress that the feeding of seahorses can put on a system, or, many times they have been misled.