Setting up a QT tank

Discussion in 'Tropical Fish' started by Recliner, Feb 13, 2013.

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  1. Recliner

    Recliner Flamingo Tongue

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    I have a 30 gal I'm wanting to use as a QT tank. Right now it has 1.5-2" live sand and some live rock in it. Besides that I only have a heater and a powerhead. Could this work as a qt tank? I'd be able to switch out 15 gallons a week of that 30 (using the water from my DT water change)
     
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  3. Swisswiss

    Swisswiss Caribbean Reef Squid

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    get rid of the sand bed unless you are willing to thoroughly clean it after every treatment as the sand will absorb medications and house parasites (from what i know)

    also i would add an artificial rock or structure to provide the QTed fish with shelter should they feel the need to hide. again artificial, not only for the ease of cleaning but for similar reason to the sand bed, it may release absorbed compounds.

    other than that thats all you need heater would be the most important part of equipment
     
  4. Recliner

    Recliner Flamingo Tongue

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    Ok, so I'll ditch the sand and sell the live rock. I'll probably get some large PVC pipes for the hiding. Could I have 2 fish at a time in there?
    Also I know I have ich in my DT tank. I'll be using the DT water to fill the qt so the new fish will get ich (probably) what meds should I have on hand to treat them to make sure they recover from it until they're settled and strong enough to naturally fight it off
     
  5. tonythereefer

    tonythereefer Fire Shrimp

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    why would you knowingly subject fish to ich? Your DT water isn't going to contain much beneficial bacteria anyways so if I were you I'd start with a fresh batch of RO/DI water in the QT get it up to temperature and go from there.

    so is your DT fishless right now? are you making this QT for new fish or the fish that have ich? (probably the first question I should have asked)

    if your DT is fishless right now and you are getting new fish to replenish livestock then I would suggest to wait until your DT is close to the end of its 8 week fishless cycle (to get rid of the ich) so the new fish don't have to be in the QT any longer than they have to be.
     
  6. Swisswiss

    Swisswiss Caribbean Reef Squid

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    Wait for more input from other users who will be able to give you further qt tips. I believe the medication used for ich is copper based. Personally I do no qt my fish for I think it's a stressing period for them, others swear by it. It's a good place to monitor a fish and get him to start eating what you want.
    If you have ich in your dt (as do I) and you don't plan to treat your tank then I don't see the point of a qt in the first place.

    You a hit a good point by mentioning the fishes own immune system to fight off ich, mine were able to do this shortly after introduction thx to a healthy, varied diet, The base of all fish and their health.
     
  7. Likeajeenyus

    Likeajeenyus Bristle Worm

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    +1. Swiss you are right on hands down.

    QT are supposed to be bare tanks.. No substrate no LR. Just a heater, a power head, basic lights, maybe even a cheap mechanical filtration, something that the fish can hide in like large pieces of PVC for fake rock.

    I do use DT water for the water changes, while some people only use fresh ro/di salt water only. All preference and what works best for you.

    A QT tank your just monitoring your livestock. I use Rally to medicate the fish then a reef safe ICH treatment even if the fish doesn't show signs. I use a copper based ICH medication if the fish is severely infected. (IMO its best to fight ICH). I wouldn't ever let that stuff touch my DT water.

    Reality is, a healthy fish should be able to fight it with its immune system. I bet water quality plays a major part as how much its going to be stressed.

    Don't quote me on this.. From what I understand from hours of forum research.. I think all our tanks have ICH in them. It is all dependent on how healthy the fish is and how it will fight it when introduced to your water system.
     
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  9. Recliner

    Recliner Flamingo Tongue

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    Right all the fish in my DT had ich initially and over came it. The last 2 fish I got both died after 4-5 weeks but not from ich. They got it in the first couple days then recovered from it.
    I was never able to get them eating and I think they eventually starved. When I pulled the body of the sailfin tang out, it had absolutely no signs of ich and hadn't in the 2 weeks before it died. I was thinking of keeping them in a qt tank just to be able to try to feed them better and to be able to medicate them if the ich got too bad.
    I just got spirulina brine shrimp for the next new fish to hopefully have better luck. I also must mention that I did not have the lfs feed them to verify they'll eat. (newb mistake I won't be repeating)
    I have too many fish in my DT to go through the process of removing the ich from my DT. I just assume new fish will get it and hope to provide an environment in which they can beat it and build up their immune system to it.
     
  10. Swisswiss

    Swisswiss Caribbean Reef Squid

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    What size tank do you have and whats your current livestock?

    Overstocking can be a major ich factor no matter how well you feed them and cab cause reluctance to feed in some fish ultimately starving them.
     
  11. Swisswiss

    Swisswiss Caribbean Reef Squid

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  12. dunc101

    dunc101 Flamingo Tongue

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    Even if you do have ich in your DT and do not care about the ich in your DT you should still QT your new fish. Their are much more serious illnesses than ich that can totally wipe out your tank in the matter of a couple of days (marine velvet anyone). I personally would also QT the main DT and get rid of ich, but again, that is your call (I've been through this process before and I know it's a pain). Like I mentioned, however, even if you do decide to not try and eradicate the existing ich, you should still QT your new fish if for nothing else than to just acclimate them and get them "stable."