So, if you could do it all over again from scratch...

Hi everyone, I've managed to get past a surging issue with my newly set up 90g AGA with the Megaflow corner overflow filter with a sump filter and I'm ready to start the cycling process.

Since I have not even added salt yet, let alone any type of rocks or fish, I figured this might be a great time to ask for some opinions before I make some newbie mistakes...( I am a newbie to salt, but have experience with fw.) I'd like to get some Trigger fish at some point, and other attractrive species that play nice together.

So here are a few questions on my mind. I should preface by stating my intention right now is to have a fish only tank. That's what I am thinking...for sure no live coral...not sure and don't really know much about live rock..I guess some pros and cons and better understanding would help, but for now I'm focused on fish.

1. I have read a bit about using RO units, etc, and wonder if I should 'not' use the water from my garden hose that I filled the tank with, but rather, begin from scratch with water from an RO unit. The water has cycled for a week or two, and the cloudiness from the sand has finally dissipated, but I'm not averse to draining it and refilling it...better to do that now I guess.

2. Should I try to agitate the sand some more and 'filter' out any of the remaining cloudiness?

3. Optimal temparature?

4. Optimal filtration...not sure if I need a protein skimmer..is a sump enough?

5. Cycling strategy? I've got time and patience, and want to do this right.

6. Maintenance techniques, and tips for mixing in salt?

7. Heavy metals in Oceanic Salt? I've read a few articles and posts on this topic. I've got an unopened 5g bucket of Oceanic Salt, but have read better things about Instan Ocean, in regards to the presence of heavy metals...etc..

I'm sorry for so many questions in one post...I just know I should try and do this right the first time, rather than regret my mis-steps later on. If some of these questions have been already discussed and answered, I'm fine with being referrred to previous posts as well.

Thanks, Bill

 

Man, I wish i had known about 3reef when I started up my tank ha ha.

Ok lets see.

1. Although I used hose water my first fill...i think that it should be ok with the filter and etc. But i would not use the garden hose for anymore adding of water to the tank.

2. Sand...are you using live sand? Was it dry when you put it in the tank? If it is live sand, you dont need to do anything with it. If it was dry sand you should have rinsed it out.

3. I would stick to a temp of 76-79 F

4. If you are planning on getting coral and protein skimmer is a must. Most companies tell you what size a tank any particular skimmer can handle. I would say its always safer to get one size bigger than one size smaller.

5. Cycling. Well...i think that the best thing to do, im skeptical about the chemical cylinders, is to get a few beginning fish such as damsels or chromis. Of course this is only after you get the tank as fish friendly as you can.

6. Ok salt...well, what i did was pour all my water in my tank then pour the salt in...since it sounds like your sand is already in there, i would just do it in small batches outside the tank...in a clean bucket.

7. Eh...it probably wont really matter...all salts have some bad stuff in them. I use tropic marine and it seems fine.

If some of my awnsers are confusing let me know ^^

 

I would drain the water and use only RO. I would also remove the sand and add the water then heat the water to 79 then add salt to 1.026 then add your sand.

when you remove the sand rinse it very well in a separate bucket. this will help when you reintroduce it. But there will always be some cloudiness

IMO 79F

I have a friend that has an amazing LPS Tank and no skimmer. I do not recommend it. I would get the best one you can on your budget

Get everything up and running and tested with Fresh water (no leaks) do the water, salt, sand, Live rock. Add a piece of raw shrimp. monitor the ammonia and Nitrates. Once they are to 0 expect an algae bloom. if your Ammonia and Nitrites stay at 0 for a week I would add a clean up crew.(snails, hermit crabs, etc.) then you could get your first fish and coral

I use a 40G bucket with a heater, 2 powerheads and an air stone. I add 40G of RO/DI water and heat and air. When at 79F I add salt until it's 1.026SG. I test my Magnesium and adjust. I then drain 40G and add my new mixed water

Sorry do not know or have not read. I use Kent or Ocean Pure

I'm sorry for so many questions in one post...I just know I should try and do this right the first time, rather than regret my mis-steps later on. If some of these questions have been already discussed and answered, I'm fine with being referrred to previous posts as well.

Thanks, Bill[/QUOTE]

No prob Bill


J

 

maybe a LITTLE help

I highly recomend using RO water versus using water from your garden hose. The question would be is it well water or are you from the city where you have treated water. I would drain what you have and find RO water to fill up. Some LFS will have mixed saltwater allready made. The other thing that I have done is have a 55 gal drum that i add RO water to and mix my salt into. I then have a powerhead that circulates and mixes it for me. This can be time consuming but if you have the time I think it is worth it. Realize that I have a reef only tank. Also that alot of people will answer with alot more information than I have. THat is just my 2 astaria worth.

 

For sure use RO from the start and save the headache of algae blooms. Cycle, cycle and cycle some more-in the dark. At least 6+ weeks with no water changes. Make sure everything is how you want it. Get a refractometer and good test kits. Research and decide EXACTLY what type of fish/corals you want (will they be compatable, cost factor and care requirements) and what you want your tank to become in a years time.
You are on the right path-patience and research.

 

All good advice from everybody, the only thing i would add is IME trigger fish dont play nice with anybody. Unless you introduce them last and are smaller than the other fish. Even then there is a risk.

Marc.

 

Thanks to everyone so far. That's shame about triggers being aggressive. I figure I am weeks or more away from adding any fish and will need to think that through.

I am going to order an RO unit and protein skimmer. Any thoughts on which types are better. Drs foster and smith have a lot of educational bits on their site, but I may be more confused now than when I started.
For example, if I have a 90g tank, would getting a protein skimmer for a tank up to 400g be over kill?
Is hang on tank or hang on sump or in sump preferable?
Is turbo the best kind?

WRT to RO units, does anyone have any caveats or favorites?

Any advantge or disadvantage to adding live rock? I'm totally green on the aquascaping, but tend to like less clutter in the tank. I know it shouldn't be completely barren though.

I'm also interested in the reasoning behind the suggested sequence of adding water, heating water, adding salt, adding sand? Since I'm going to drain and refill with RO water, I'm thinking I can stir up/rinse the sand in the water currently in the tank, annd then drain it. I can remove the sand I guess, but am wondering why I should do it that way, instead of just rinsing it in the 90gallons of water I have, and then discarding that water.

Lastly, on cycling...it was mentioned to do some cycling in the dark, with no lights? Reason why? And for how long? Is there an optimal time to have the lights go on/off? Since there is some direct sunlight that may hit the tank in the late afternoon...any special consdierations/suggestions?

 

IMO there is no such thing as over kill when it comes to skimmers.

What is WRT?

Live rock will provide a place to house all the good bacteria and it will give your fish places to hide. Its always a plus IMO.

The sand should be added last because, 1st it makes less of a mess adding sand to water than water to sand. 2nd You want to put your rock before the sand so its sturdy and if you get some critters or fish that dig in the sand you dont want the LR to crush them. I learned that the hard way.

As for the lights, i've always cycled with them on so i too would be interested into knowing why the lights off during cycle. And direct sun light can be a problem, it can cause major algea.

Marc.

 

I think the theory of cycle with the lights off is to not give algae an advantage. your tank will produce a lot of nitrate and with the lights on algae will eat the Nitrates and become a huge problem.

I do not believe this, I would cycle with lights on. For the very reason others would say leave them off. once your Ammonia and Nitrites become zero and stable your should perform your first water change. You will also see the effects of excess nitrates in your water by your first algae bloom. this would be ten time worse IMO if you had not introduced light to the tank up until this point. because you would be introducing 2 food sources for algae instead of just one.

J

 

OK, this all makes sense. I'm leaning towards a jumbo protein skimmer, provided it can fit in my cabinet. Any opinions on whether a hang on tank or hang on sump or in sump preferable? Is turbo the best kind?


WRT = with regard to. So, with regard to RO units...wondering about them still as well.