So, if you could do it all over again from scratch...

Discussion in 'New To The Hobby' started by wbodei, Dec 27, 2006.

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  1. m_lacom99

    m_lacom99 Stylophora

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2004
    Messages:
    978
    Location:
    Montreal, QC,Quebec
    It all depends on the space you have, Im sure you will get some good suggestions but i'm not going to be the one since i run a crappy skimmer :p. by turbo i assume your takling about a berlin turbo right?

    A RO/DI unit will remove all of the crap thats in tap water. So basically you get the cleanest possible water for your tank. Im not going to go into the details of how they work but they do work. You can get them on ebay for pretty cheap, like 130$ shipped. IMO its a must.

    Marc.
     
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  3. inwall75

    inwall75 Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2003
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    7,172
    Location:
    America
    The best RO/DI units use the Filmtec 75GPD membranes. The rejection rates are much better for that membrane which means that your DI resins last longer. DI filters are best if they are up and down vs layed on top of the RO unit. One of our sponsors sells some pretty good ones. www.airwaterice.com Reefkeepers
    Buckeye Field Supply has some nice stuff too.

    There's one thing that you'll NEVER regret.....good quality water for waterchanges and for evaporation topoffs. A lot of people get into this hobby and a lot of people leave this hobby. The people who leave usually leave for one reason....ALGAE. They just get so frustrated with algae they quit. Using phosphate free RO/DI water with zero TDS will help you greatly in avoiding algae.
     
  4. Blade_Runner

    Blade_Runner Gigas Clam

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2004
    Messages:
    851
    Location:
    Carpentersville, IL
    Lots of good advise, but I'm still wondering what kind of FO tank you are trying to create?
    Show?
    FOWLER?

    Some of the filtration answers are modified based on your choice.

    The problem with tap water is primarily phosphates. I've cycled with RODI and tap. Personally, I have not seen any differences at that stage. I've even had bigger blooms with RODI than tap. Go figure. By now much of the phosphates in the tap water have probably parcipitated out into the sand. Anyway a good RO unit is a must for most muni water supplies. It is amazing how much DOCs and phosphates are in my water.

    If you decide to go with a FOWLER, I cure LR in a covered trash can or tub with a power head with the lights off. I cycle with the lights on. IMO, a FOWLER has a more natural look and aids in the nitrogen cycle. Also, if you change your mind and want to go to a reef, you are most of the way there. On the other hand, a show tank is easy too. I did FO show tanks for years and both me and my fish were happy and fat, to coin a phrase. IMO, show is old tech. FOWLER is new.

    As long as you have a sump, an in sump skimmer is the way to go. There are lots of good choices. Get a skimmer rated to 200g or so. With no coral, a good skimmer should be sufficient. No need to go over the top. If you change your mind, you still should be in good shape. I know I'll get picked on for this but a Jebo 520 off ebay with a pump for under $100 will be more than sufficient for a 90g FOWLER.

    Have fun and keep asking questions.
     
  5. wbodei

    wbodei Plankton

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2006
    Messages:
    12
    I had to study up on my acronyms, but for now I am thinking a fish only (FO?)tank but maybe fish only with live rock (FOWLER?) makes more sense.

    I do not see any protein skimmers than would fit inside my sump without leaving the lid off or modifying it. I have a #3 Megaflow acryllic wet dry sump. I was looking at the berlin turbo hang-on which i guess I can hang onto the sump?

    What about UV Sterilzers? Do you guys recommend those?

    I'd like to order all the things I need at once and get them installed after I drain the water before I fill it up again.

    Would it be ok if hid the heater behind the corner unit of the over flow?

    Also, in terms of water flow inside the tank, and dead spots, etc...my return has a dual nozzle. Should I add any more power heads, or air bubbles, or anything else to agitate the water so it moves around enough? I want to be flexible with the infrastructure so if I decide later I'd like to add rock or coral that I have the means to support that in place already.

    Thanks, Bill
     
  6. m_lacom99

    m_lacom99 Stylophora

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2004
    Messages:
    978
    Location:
    Montreal, QC,Quebec
    For the acronyms you can check out this page
    http://www.3reef.com/reef_acronyms.html

    Yes you could hang the berlin on your sump.

    I dont use a UV because yes it takes out the bad but it also takes out the good stuff in the water.

    Why not put the heater in your sump???

    Powerheads for sure. I try to get a minimum of 10X turnover (right now i have about 45X turnover). No bubbles.

    Marc.
     
  7. Tyslin

    Tyslin Feather Duster

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2007
    Messages:
    207
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Hey Wbodei,

    I have a megaflow sump model #3, and I bought a turboflotor 1000 multi from fosters and smith. I set it up in my sump and it fits fine. The only thing I had to do was to remove the cover from the sump. I believe removing the cover shouldn't affect anything in your sump. But the turboflotor works great it's quiet, very efficient, and is highly recommended.

    Let me know what you decided to do.

    Tyslin.