Starting a mini-reef

Well, I got bit by the "reef bug" over the weekend and I am starting a 20 gal mini-reef tank.

I picked up some Seachem reef salt and 16 lbs of Nature's Ocean bio-active live aragonite for my substrate.

For filtration I will use my Penguin bio-wheel filter and I will be adding premium Fiji live rock completely covered in purple coraline in a couple of days. Presently it's at my LFS on hold for me. Being a smaller tank I will be using one power head (Maxi Jet 900).

For lighting I am considering something like this:
http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/power_LUNaqualight.html

I will not be using a sump (is this a mistake?)

For lack of space (both in my room and in the tank) I told my LFS that I will not be using a skimmer and was told that I can be OK without one as long as I do regular water changes (is this also a mistake?)

My LFS told me that with this initial set-up cycling the tank should take less time but to keep a close watch on the primary parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) and I should be OK.

My RO/DI water has already been poured into a large Rubbermaid bucket, heated and stirred for the past 24 hrs ..... I will be mixing the salt today.

Comments / criticism are most welcomed as I don't want to screw up. I want this done properly right from the start.

Wish me luck

 

Good luck with the mini reef tank. Yes, you don't need a sump. Sumps enable you to add more water volume and serface area to your main tank. Is a place hidden for the most part, which allows you to store heater, skimmer, refugium etc. Those are the main reasons for a sump. It is not crucial to have one IMO. I have a 75 gallon reef tank without a sump. I have a hang on refugium, skimmer and powerheads is all!
As for the skimmer, their has been controversy over the idea of not using a skimmer for filtration of saltwater aquariums. Again, IMO, I think that if you are able to perform water changes religiously and NOT overfeed or overcrowd your tank, you should be successful. Now, a couple things to help you in the venture is a deep sand bed and addition of live rock which you said you will have.
As for the Penguim bio-wheel filter, I would get rid of the bio wheel as it will become a nitrate and phosphate growth factory. I had the same one and recently got rid of the bio-wheel with success as phosphates are lower.
I have one question sssnake, you have a bio-wheel filter and not a skimmer!
Why not can the filter and replace it with a skimmer? They make nano-skimmer and one for small tanks like you are going to be setting up?
Just curious is all...at any rate have fun and best of luck with the tank! Take pictures and let us know how you make out and what you have in your tank!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I'll check out for a HOB nano skimmer. I'm going to my LFS today so I'll ask.

How 'bout the lighting I'm considering? Any comments good/bad?

Thanks.

I'll post pics ASAP.

 

The Coralife Aqualight fixture is pretty good. I had that on my 75 gallon reef tank. Recently though, I switched to metal halide pendants, because I need stronger, more intense lighting for the corals I was going to be raising.
Have you shopped around or researched going with t-5's or metal halide pendant with pc's or t-5's?
Ask yourself this question, what kind of coral do you plan on keeping in your tank? Then you can make a better choice!

 

My first thought was to go with what I have now in my main tank which is two of these (second one listed) 24" Aqualight T-5 Fixture Double Linear Strip

Here's the link:
http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/power_aqualightT5.htm

I will do what I have done with my main tank, that is switch the lights so I can have 2 blue actinics and 2 daylights in their own respective hoods. Besides the color this combo gives out being awsome, will this amount of light be OK for soft and hard corals given the tank is 16 inches deep?

I want to stay away from MH because of the heat factor. I'm planning to have an open top tank covered only with black eggcrate. I may decide to put 2 clowns in there with my maintenance crew.

 

You won't have a problem especially with the soft corals. As for the halides and the heat generated by the bulbs, if you use a fan you will be able to control the heat transferred to your water without using a chiller. Evaporative cooling does an awesome job cooling the water though you will have to top off water due to evaporation!

 

My 20H has been running for about a month now. I'm using the Coralife aqualight, but just the one with the single bulb (50/50). I'm not planning on doing anything much with corals so I opted for the simple light to start with. I'm running a Remora skimmer and love it. The skimmer is rated up to 75 gallons, I believe, so I spent the money on the skimmer upfront, for the possibility of moving up from 20 gallons. I hadn't been doing any mechanical filtration, but put on a simple Aquaclear with some activated charcoal at the suggestion of my LFS. Still not sure about it.
I cycled my tank with 20lbs of live rock and my nitrates were down to 0 after just about a week. The diatom bloom followed right on schedule and my cleaning crew took care of that. I still haven't seen much of a cyano bloom. (knock on wood)
Best of luck!

 

Thanks.......

I'm off to the LFS. Be back later.

 

The live rock is absolutely beautiful, all covered with purple coraline and all kinds of life. One piece has a nice size mushroom on it with most of the pieces containing polyps some as high as one inch. There were a few aptasias however which were taken care of with Joe's Juice. Should I still buy this rock or steer away?

Also, any comments on the Seaclone 100 skimmer? It looks perfect for my space requirements but don't know enough about this particular brand. It come complete with everything CAD$140.

Thanks,
E

 

Most people had bad experiences with Seaclone skimmers. But then again i herd of a couple that had no problems. I would still stay away. To what LFS did you go to see LR like that? Im missing a couple of lbs in my 20 so if its that nice ill go check it out.

Marc.