Suggestions for 2 y/o Tank

Discussion in 'General Reef Topics' started by mkjava, Jul 12, 2006.

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  1. mkjava

    mkjava Astrea Snail

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    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    Hi all,
    I've had my tank for just about 2 years now, but I still feel like I'm a newbie at it. For the most part, my fish have done well, but I think the tank could be and look a lot better than it does now. I'm looking for some suggestions for next steps, how I can make some improvements. Here's what I have:

    55 gal
    Emperor 400 Filter, plus 2 powerheads
    Remora Skimmer
    50lbs live rock, crushed coral/live sand substrate
    Orbit 48" 65w dual daylight/dual actinic lighting
    2 clownfish
    1 flame angel
    1 royal gramma
    1 neon goby
    1 sailfin tang (i know he will outgrow this tank, i got him at the start before I knew better :( )
    various snails and hermit crabs

    I don't use RO/DI water currently, just tap that's treated/salted and left to settle for a week or so. The substrate looks pretty dirty and purple from the algae, and I'm afraid to mix it up too much during water changes. I wish I would have gone with a finer grain sand instead as I think it looks a lot better. I made one attempt at corals, a mushroom that only lasted a few weeks unfortunately. My nitrates usually hover in the 10-20 ppm range, other measurements look good though.

    So what's my best course of action, get an RO/DI system, change substrate, something else to take the tank to the 'next level'? Thanks for responses! :)
     
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  3. Diver_1298

    Diver_1298 Eyelash Blennie

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    I would change the substrate also. A fine white sand will make it look nice and if you only put in about an inch, you could vacuum it when you do water changes.
    I would also go with a hob overflow and put in a refugium. This would allow you to cultivate some macro algae which will help export some excess nitrates and keep down the algae in the main tank. An RO/DI filter in Florida would help cut down on unwanted dissolved solids in your make-up water.
    You already know what you want ;) You just want someone to agree with you :)
    Just plan out what you want and take small steps to make sure it can be done without changing too many things at on time.


    Jim
     
  4. mkjava

    mkjava Astrea Snail

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    Thanks for the response Jim. With the hob overflow, were you suggesting replacing the Emperor 400 filter with a small wet/dry or sump instead? It couldn't be too big, not a lot of room in the stand below the tank. What's the benefit that I would see with that vs. the current filter?
    Thanks!
     
  5. Diver_1298

    Diver_1298 Eyelash Blennie

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    What I meant was an overflow that would take the water down to a refugium under your main tank and then use a pump to return the water flow. I would leave the Emperor, as they can be very useful to eliminate smells and other stuff with activated carbon. Plus they are good at mechanical filtration.

    Jim
     
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  6. coral reefer

    coral reefer Giant Squid

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    You need to test your water parameters! How often do you do this? Also, do you do alot of reading about saltwater aquariums? An RODI filter is of utmost importance for pristine water quality(removes almost all contaminants including phosphates and silicates) by removing pollutants as little as a micron I believe.
    A sump and/ or refugium is also ideal and very beneficial!!!!!!!!!
    What kind of powerhead are you using? How many gph? You may want to increase the water movement.
    I would use aragonite as a substrate! It effectively will aid in buffering your water. It also releases trace minerals continuously, almost like a time-release vitamin, over time. Now you don't nor would I advise you to remove your substrate in your tank now!!!! That would be detrimental as your removing beneficial bacteria, pods, worms and many other living organisms needed for feeding purposes, detritus and waste breakdown(keeping ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels under control.

    Hope this helps!!!!!
    Let us know how you make out...
     
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  7. mkjava

    mkjava Astrea Snail

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    I'm definitely feeling the old adage 'if i knew then what I know now', I would have gone with a larger drilled tank, had a sump to begin with, etc. Live and learn right! :)

    I do test my water regularly, nitrites, ammonia, ph are all good, only nitrates give me trouble, usually between 10-20ppm, sometimes higher. I've definitely read a lot as well, online and books. 'The Conscientious Marine Aquarist' has been the book that I've reviewed the most. For powerheads, I have a pair of maxi-jet 900's (230gph).

    From what I've read and advice I've received, seems like the RO/DI would be the single best thing I could do for the aquarium now, considering the water quality in Florida? I'd like to do the sump and/or fuge, but space is tight in the stand below the tank, it would have to be pretty small. The way the stand supports are, I can't imagine anything larger than a 5g tank in one of the cabinets below the display tank. Would something that small even be beneficial?

    On the substrate, I've read in a few places, including the book I mentioned that changing out the sand (about 30-50% at a time) is something I should have done already, to get rid of debris and replenish the bacteria, etc. Is this not the case?

    Thanks again for all the help!
     
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  9. Zissou

    Zissou Fire Shrimp

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    your cabinet space definately sounds limited for a refug/sump. what you can do though is use a hang on refugium, i think cpr makes them. there are quite a few on liveaquaria/ drfosters and smith. those guys are for sure right about adding a ro/di unit; very beneficial.
     
  10. coral reefer

    coral reefer Giant Squid

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    If you can get your nitrates to<10ppm, it would help your tank inhabitants. Having said this, nitrates aren't all bad! You need to have some nitrates for corals and Tridacna clams especially. They will feed on nitrates and other nutrients suspended in your water column. Either being adsorbed through their cellular walls, or filtered as done by tridacnas and sponges, nitrates need to be present. Believe it or not, but if you have no nitrates in your water, Tridacnas will usually die, especially the baby and juvenile ones. They will also feed on phosphates and other DOM(disolved organic matter)!
    As for the sand issue, DO NOT I repeat DO NOT remove any substrate! You would be doing a disservice to your tank. In fact the opposite should hold true. Through time aragonite sand/coral etc. will break down as it leeches out into the paleagic area(water column) of your tank.
    Now for water movement, you should increase the water flow in your tank. 6-10 times over is beneficial in suspending detritus in your water column to be removed by the skimmer and consumed by your corals and other livestock. It also eliminates dead spots and carries out oxygen and carbon dioxide transfer.
     
  11. mkjava

    mkjava Astrea Snail

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    Thanks guys for the good advice! My wife has been asking me about what I want for my upcoming birthday, looks like an RO system is on the list now. I've looked at some online in a few places, including liveaquaria.com. Is any one better than the others, or any particular brand or type I should avoid in your experience? They all seem pretty similar with the biggest difference the amount of water they can produce. I'm assuming a smaller one for my size tank should be sufficient?