Sump Advice Please

So the sump that came with my tank is pretty nice, but it's not perfect.

Here's a pic and questions below:



I marked up the obvious design that would work with this sump. But i have some concerns:
- To much flow through fuge
- Fuge getting water after skimmer with potentially less nutrients
- Fuge walls not being high enough and pods etc escaping too easily through that plastic mesh
- Fuge not being high enough for DSB and/or good amount of cheato
- No bubble traps

So the questions:

Bubble trap:
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- Is it worth the effort to add some bubble traps now?
- Where can I source the glass and silicone to add bubble trap baffles? Please include links if possible.
- Any special tools I need?

Fuge not getting enough nutrients:
-------------------------------------
- What if i split return in two and diverted some flow directly into refugium so it gets "dirty" water? Is it better? Or not worse it and dumping into skimmer section is good enough?

Overal layout:
-------------------
- Any other ideas on how to set this up?
- If i am gonna do baffles, maybe I can split existing fuge section in half via a vertical divider, and extend walls of one of the new compartments creating a taller fuge with separate flow (skimmer section would overflow into one compartment, but not new taller fuge).

Thanks!

 

This is more of a bump than anything.
Would your skimmer fit where you want the fuge now? It seems like there will be a lot of flow there if you have it the way it's set up. IMO.. You also want bubble traps attest at your return. I only have two walls for my bubble to save room, and it helps a lot

 

Definitely want bubble traps, I don't think you'll have too much flow through the fuge, the skimmer skimming before the fuge is fine... It won't skim all the water that comes down. Pods will escape through the water column regardless of height, which is good. Your pod population will reproduce in the fuge and every once in awhile a few will get thrown via pump into the DT. Deep sand bed is about 4-6 inches optimally so you can adjust your walls to account for that..

 

Most people have them, but I don't. So far, I have not had any issues with microbubbles in the DT. I believe bubble traps become necessary if you have too much flow through your sump/fuge causing a lot of splashing/bubble formation that in turn gets chopped up with your return pump. Do a good job of keeping your drains below the water level and minimize the flow through the sump. I think I'm flowing at about 1x DT volume per hour, which is about 6x active sump volume per hour (40b sump with about 25 gallons active volume).

My sump layout is Fuge-->Return<--Skimmer. All my drain flow goes into the skimmer section and is filtered through a sock. I have a pump that feeds the fuge from the return section (could also be a tee off the main return pump). I like this better because I control the amount of nutrient that goes into the fuge. I just throw some NLS 1mm pellets in there 2x per week to feed the pods. I have a very healthy pod population. I originally had my drain split between the skimmer and the fuge, and I didn't like how "scummy" my chaeto would get. Since making the change to the current set-up, my chaeto is very healthy and full of pods.

+1 on this idea.

Good luck!

 

I can always count on 3reef to have get some real advice. I've posted this on several other more active forums, and nada. Thank you 3reef!

It would, but the water level in that section is only 6". Water level in first section is 9" which is more suitable for my skimmer I believe.

Thanks guys.

Thanks for the info!

Wow, my current return pump (that came with tank) is 1100 gph. But that will also divert some flow through manifold into reactors and possibly fuge if I add new taller chamber. Still, that's 10x the volume. I also will have two MP40s in DT for circulation. Do I need to slow down my return/drain?

I think i'll go this route if I can figure out where to get glass/silicone and add taller fuge chamber. Except I'll feed fuge from return pump via tee + gate valve.



Last question, and I am doing searching/googling myself, but if you have links to great glass sump DIY articles with instructions on how to work with glass/silicone, please link.

Also, if you know where I can get precut glass panels, please let me know

Thanks.

 

Forgot to add, my drains are pretty huge. I think it's 1 1/2" which should be enough for 2300gph at full siphon. There's a 2nd stand pipe too which is same diameter.

I'll be converting this to herbie and adding gate valve to the main primary drain so I can dial this in. In theory I should be able to slow down first one down to any volume I want, and have 2nd one as emergency capable of 2300gph.

 

Great advice, nice work on your build.

Your return pump- rated at 1100gph? Is that at the ~ 4ft head, with all the bends in the line? If thats the rating max- it wont' be quite that much at whatever head height, etc. It is said each 90 degree bend is about 1ft head height also. 45's about 1/2 foot.

MOst decent pumps do publish accurate gph flow at variious head heights- of a sttaight pipe, w/o any bends in it.

That being said, I'm sure that for your total sump flow- that pump will be fine.

 

I was slightly mistaken. It's 991 gph. It's the 4000 model.
Lifegard Aquatics Quiet One Pro Series Aquarium Pump

I am planning on running two 45s instead of single 90 at each elbow. So let's say that's 1.5ft of head extra. ~6ft total. Chart says that pump is rated at 991gph at 10ft. So I guess ill be getting max gph. Is this a decent pump?

I also have mag drive supreme 12 laying around. Looks like about 991gph at 6' too.
Danner Mag-Drive Supreme Water Pump

Which of the two do you think is a better pump for return? I'll use other one for water changes and other random tasks as well as have it as backup pump.

Thanks!

 

I'm full of advice. Just no guarantee it's good advice.

I don't have a good answer for you on this. I don't see many posts about sump flow too much. I remember seeing one post that talked about ranges of flow, and I was on the low end of the range if I remember correctly.

One thing I forgot to add is that I have a by-pass on my drain that goes directly to my return section with a tee and a couple ball valves. I switch the valves whenever I feed planktonic stuff like reef snow so I don't filter it out in the socks and it helps feed the fuge.

 

I am not planning on using a filter sock, but that's a great idea. I think in my case I will be able to just turn the skimmer off.