Sump/fuge plumbing and setup advise please.

Alright, I have finally made the jump to saltwater and soon to corals . Currently, I have my 75 gal. tank cycling (Ammonia almost to 0, Nitrite sky high). I went ahead and started the cycling process with a couple extra HOB's and a couple circulation pumps running (also have ~100lbs dry rock, 70lbs dry/live sand). Now its time to get the sump/fuge up and running!!

I would like to keep the sump fairly simple (not much of a craftsman), but also would like to provide an atmosphere where my tank can thrive. I was given a 30gal tank which I will use as the sump, the outside dimensions are 36 1/4"x 12 5/8"x16 3/4". Here is a basic top down view of the basic layout, any advice that anyone can give me would be very helpful and much appreciated.



The tank is not drilled, so I will be using an overflow that is rated for 800gph. Attached to this I will be using the 1" (I believe these are the sizes) flexible hosing. This will attach to a pvc T-valve, One end will be sent to the fuge the other will continue down to the filter sock. Prior to the filter sock I will have an attached ball valve to send some of the flow to the fuge (going for low flow in fuge). The first major question that I have concerns the T. Can I get a T that one end will connect to a 1" pvc ball valve and then the other to a smaller black tube that will be sent to the fuge (Like the small black tube that is sometimes attached to the return pump for the DT)? If I do have to use pvc for both do I need to do anything extra to keep it in place or would it just rest on the sump dividers?

On to the sump itself. I plan to either get glass cut with a hole in it or just cut eggcrate to set the filter sock in. Anyone that could suggest positives/negatives of either way or the optimal sock size for my tank? This top structure will rest on the rim of the tank and will be next to the skimmer section. The next major question is: Do I need any kind of vertical divider between these 2 sections (I don't see the harm in putting the skimmer directly next to the filter sock)?

I have not purchased my skimmer thus far, and wont be able to until after the completion of the sump itself. What would be a safe amount of space to leave in this section for a good skimmer for a 75 gal reef (I have 25" head height available, any suggestions are very welcome)? After this section I will add a bubble trap with the 3 glass dividers 1" apart (insert sponge). The next section will be the return section would like to leave enough room to prevent an intolerable amount of top offs, at least until I find a place for an ATO.

The next section will be the fuge (DSB/etc..). I would like this section to be low flow, so that the tank fully benefits from its effects. What I am thinking with this section is to almost completely wall it off with a piece of glass. Then have a hole cut in the upper section to allow me to put a small tube (such as the one's for the return pump) that will allow the flow to go to the return section. I am thinking to do it this way so its not a straight drop off causing extra noise.

Thank you very much to anyone that has made it through this short story/questionnaire. If anyone could take the time to help me through this I will bless their first born child .

The main questions I have are this:
1. Can anyone tell me the sizes of glass panels that I need cut (I can and will mess this up)? The tank size is 36 1/4"x 12 5/8"x16 3/4" on the outside. Not sure what the inside measurements are, cant get a good read on it due to the tank being under the stand already (standard size glass I believe, so what should I take off from the outside Measurements)?

2. Can I use a T that would connect to the ball valve (to the sock), and also to feed the fuge with a smaller tube?

3. Do I need a divider between the filter sock and skimmer sections?

4. What would be a safe amount of space to leave myself for the skimmer footprint?

5. Good idea to use the tube to feed the return section from the fuge or crap?

 

See answers above.

 

The way you got things looks pretty solid and well thought out.

One thing that you may consider and this is all technique: instead of running your fuge from the overflow run it from your return pump. The reason I suggest this it if your return is more powerful than your feed you can branch it off of the return line and recirculate it into the fuge and in turn back to the pump. This will let you run the pump more full open and lessen the back pressure should you have to dial it back. I had to do this with my HOB overflow I was running the fuge dry & sucking air into the return pump otherwise.

You may want to consider a baffle between your sock & the skimmer I have seen it dont either way. I took my sock out as I was losing flow with it. I on the other hand built & run a algae turf scrubber so I dont run max flow thru the overflow/return.

as far as size for your skimmer foot print, just look into the types of skimmer you are considering and go from there. marinedepot for example is really good at listing the footprint size in the item description somewhere.

 

Wow you guys are amazing (and fast) thank you for the advice. khowst- I'm not sure if I understand correctly. I will be running an overflow box that is rated for 800gph, and then my return is going to be run off a mag7 (don't remember what its rated, but well under 800 with any head height at all). I understand that 800gph is the max, but I couldn't really see losing that much flow back to the return area. The plumbing and return sock might slow it down some, and then the skimmer will just be bi-passed as needed, so that shouldn't slow it down correct? I could see that running it that way would make it virtually impossible to run the return area dry, but then I would think I would have a much quicker flow through the fuge (which I would like to stay away from).

hmmm kinda unsure about running it that way. Anyone else run their sumps this way? I guess I would just use a ball valve on the return section to send some flow to the fuge that way? Either way great advice guys thank you. Oh.. 2in10 why leave the sponge out? Prevent flow/place for additional nitrates? Thought it might help with micro bubbles/more mechanical filtration.

 

FYI My RO/DI container just overflowed pretty nicely all over the floor while I was writing up this post. First good spill, have had cichlid tanks for 13 years no major spills, reef (soon to be) for 3 weeks and the floors already wet... LOL no good.

 

Your better off need to have a return pump rated higher than your overflow, and youll want to higher by a margin not a bit. If not it wont be able to keep up and you'll overflow your sump. I have nearly the same set up except I went with a 20g sump (what I had in the garage), same overflow & a mag 9.5. My return branches into 2, one goes to the DT and the other goes to the fuge. Both have ball valves so I can adjust the flow as needed.

 

I don't understand this at all. My understanding of it is that the return pump would regulate how much water is being pumped through my overflow (up to the max). This is due to the fact that if the water level drops in the DT (because the return pump cant keep up with the overflow) then more water is not brought into the overflow box. Is that not correct? Anyone can help me with that?

 

I can't find any fault with the above design except to add that I am currently starting a 90 gal build with the same footprint as your 75G ... I can't work a 30G under my stand, and a lil envy if you can ...

...another variable that I devoted considerable thought to was heat transfer from the pumps...some say it isn't much but I wonder...BTW any chance you have one of those pumps like a quiet one that can go internal or external? (many LFS charge a minimal fee to drill a bulkhead) ...just thinking along wth you

 

This is correct. If your overflow box can only do 800GPH, then you want your pump to be SMALLER than 800GPH, otherwise you will be forced to restrict it down.

 

You will probably want to go larger than a mag7, its only rated at 700 gph at 0 feet of head. add in 4 feet of head and were talking around 400. maybe a mag 12?