Surge Protector Question

Discussion in 'General Reef Topics' started by crustytheclown, Nov 26, 2010.

to remove this notice and enjoy 3reef content with less ads. 3reef membership is free.

  1. wiigelec

    wiigelec Fire Shrimp

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2009
    Messages:
    339
    Location:
    SW WY
    "I actually do mean the device that allows for a 3 prong male to plug into a 2 prong wall outlet."

    The proper solution to your dilemma is to replace the two prong outlet with a GFCI outlet, this is the National Electrical Code approved method...
     
  2. Click Here!

  3. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2009
    Messages:
    3,904
    Location:
    Phoenix AZ
    A GFCI only works if the circuit is properly grounded back to the circuit breaker and ground rod. It could be a false sense of security if it worked at all.
    You mightcheck with your building maintenance guy, he should be able to help you or tell you if they are on a 3 wire circuit. If some of the outlets are already 3 prong it should be but then again they may have had some outlets that needed replacing and thats all they could find? If you have one and now how to use it, it could also be tested with a volt/ohm meter.
     
  4. ReefSparky

    ReefSparky Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2007
    Messages:
    3,675
    Location:
    South Florida
    This is commonly stated but untrue. A GFI operates by opening a circuit if there exists a 4-6mA disparity between the hot and the neutral; for this reason, a GFI will function normally without a ground wire. I think a lot of folks think a ground wire is necessary because of the GFCI's name, but this is not the case. Infact, this is why wiigelec (an electrician) correctly states that when an ungrounded, 2 wire receptacle is encountered, it should be replaced by a GFCI outlet.

    For those interested, the chief purpose of a a ground wire is to facilitate the opening of a circuit breaker during a fault. The rationale is the fault current has a low-impedance path (low impedance=high current) to flow, and it is this fault current that opens a circuit breaker. This doesn't mean that without a ground wire, a circuit breaker doesn't work. It can and often does--but the preferred path for a short circuit, ground fault, or other unanticipated flow of current is the ground wire, NOT a human being. The ground wire serves other purposes, like ensuring that all metallic, non-current carrying items (like the shell of a refrigerator, stove, or the front of a circuit breaker panel) are kept at earth potential (zero voltage).
     
  5. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2009
    Messages:
    3,904
    Location:
    Phoenix AZ
    Wow, thats a new one for me. I thought like everyone else that a GFI only worked on a 3 wire circuit?
     
  6. wiigelec

    wiigelec Fire Shrimp

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2009
    Messages:
    339
    Location:
    SW WY
    Thanks fellow Sparky!

    "A GFCI only works if the circuit is properly grounded back to the circuit breaker and ground rod."

    A GFCI is a form of "differential relay" (for you power folks). A difference in current between two wires (hot and neutral) will operate the relay and open the circuit.

    The reason it is called a ground-fault circuit interrupter is because in a short circuit fault (hot to neutral short) the same current will be present in both the hot and neutral, and the current will generally be high enough (think zero resistance) to operate the circuit breaker in a short enough time to prevent damage to the conductors. A person will generally not be present in the fault current path.

    In a ground fault (hot to ground short) a person can be the cause of the fault and bear the full brunt of the fault current. The magnitude of the current required to open the circuit breaker will most likely cause significant harm to the person in the fault current path. A means must be provided to open the circuit before damage can occur. Keep in mind that the current flowing through the person to ground will NOT be present in the neutral conductor, therefore a differential type relay may be used, ie GFCI...
     
  7. crustytheclown

    crustytheclown Eyelash Blennie

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2009
    Messages:
    1,270
    Location:
    Colorado
    I inspected the outlet. It looks like there are two white wires with a red stripe connected to the two screws on the right side of the outlet and then a copper wire that is covered in a green covering is connected to the lower screw on the left side of the outlet.
     
  8. Click Here!

  9. crustytheclown

    crustytheclown Eyelash Blennie

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2009
    Messages:
    1,270
    Location:
    Colorado
    does this sound good or not?
     
  10. ReefSparky

    ReefSparky Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2007
    Messages:
    3,675
    Location:
    South Florida
    It's inconclusive. Are you saying that the receptacle has only 2 wires running to the same side; and they both carry the same white wire/red stripe marking?

    The copper wire (bare, I'm presuming) would indicate a ground.

    In some VERY old dwellings the neutral and ground serve the same purpose, but that's pretty antiquated.

    Any chance of a pic, crusty?
     
  11. crustytheclown

    crustytheclown Eyelash Blennie

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2009
    Messages:
    1,270
    Location:
    Colorado
    Here is a picture of the bloody receptacle. I apologize for the amount of dust and grime ;D My building is so old. I dont think it is grounded???
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    This is how i am using it now.
    [​IMG]
    What should i do?
     
  12. ReefSparky

    ReefSparky Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2007
    Messages:
    3,675
    Location:
    South Florida
    Great pics! (That's no sarcasm--you showed what needed to be shown). FWICS (I'm gonna make up a new acronym--maybe Curt will add it to the list--FWICS=From What I Can See) it's a standard old-school receptacle. There's a white for neutral, and a black for the hot. What I can't see is the bare wire attaching to the yoke of the receptacle, but you stated it's there, so I'll take your word for it.

    It appears as though your neutral is serving double duty as a ground. This isn't uncommon in older dwellings, as the neutral and the ground (green) are most times bonded together at the panel anyways.

    If I were in your position I'd use that 3-prong transitioner and plug into it, a GFCI extension. Then you'd have GFI protection and peace of mind. They're relatively inexpensive, and you'd be good to go.

    Good luck, crusty!! :)