Switching From Ocean Water to Reef Chrystals.

For the past 4 years I've purchased ocean water from my LFS for h2o changes. This water consistently tests 1.023 to 1.025. My tank stays at a steady 1.026. 2 months ago, I began making my own with Reef Chrystals (suggested by a friend on 3reef). Coraline has taken off ...softies and trumpets growing rapidly. My lobo and favia haven't looked so good tho. They stay constricted. My params haven't changed... Sal 1.026, alk 9-10...calc 450 ...mag 1250-1300...0 phos, nitrates, nitrites, ammonia ...ph 8... Sometimes slightly lower.

I usually change 8 gallons every 2 weeks. Since I've been mixing, I have slowly changed 1 gallon twice per week. I mix it, run in in a 10g tank for 24 hours with a maxi jet 1200 at the bottom and a cheap filter with no media ....for surface movement/ GE. The mix is definitely dissolved prior to usage. I use rodi from my LFS ...tests fine prior to mixing.

Could this change be affecting my LPS? Also, how long can I keep the mix in the tank prior to using? Days? Weeks?

Note: I top off with ro distilled as needed. Sorry for rambling ...trying to provide as much info as possible.

 

At first read through here I am thinking the total make-up of the ocean water and the self made water have something i.e. elemental, in a far different range from one another. I would get a gal. of the ocean water and see exactly what all the parameters are and then do the same for the self made water and compare. The other thing that comes to mind is that there is something in the ocean water that those coral were feeding on although I don't know how the ocean water is stored and if it could even sustain any microbial or other type of life. Hope this helps.

 

There is a ton of merit to what the Unky Jed said and thats is where I would start. I say this because I have found that the last 2-200 gallon boxes of of reef crystals I bought have both been severely lacking in Alkalinity/DKH end of the chemical make-up, and when I say severe I means it. I tested the last batch of water I mixed an found it to be right on or just above 7 which is a long shot from the 11 that is needed for our tanks to thrive and especially LPS corals it seems.

But to be completely honest with you I also think that part of your problem is the change from 8 gallons every 2 week to 1 gallon twice a week. When ever I do a water change it affects all of my corals for some time, then they all tend to get happy in a short while. But by doing this twice a week you might not be giving them a change to fully recover. May I ask what is your reasoning for moving up to twice a week and less water?

Your best off letting some time elapse between changes and doing a bit more than 1 gallon, say like 15 to 20 percent. There are some many trains of thought on water changes and not all of them will agree but I know this is what I have been doing since I got back in the hobby and its works for me, 20% every other Saturday.

As far as how long you can keep the mix, I mix mine up right after I use it and keep it moving with a pump until I use it again 2 weeks later and have had no issues at all.

 

With all other params the same, why would the coralline suddenly take off after 4 years?

What concerns me is your salinity numbers...

Your tank is 1.026

the Ocean water (assuming you mean this is natural sea water?) is 1.023 to 1.025

Now, for Ocean water (natural sea water) to change that much means that it is being affected by evaporation or collection is inconsistent (if the water is collected from the surface just after rain, etc.)

Are you supplementing the tank with Calcium and Alkalinity? You will need to for LPS and SPS corals and coralline to grow.

Also, what salinity are you mixing the Reef Crystals to? This can affect the concentration of Alk and Calcium in the mix.

Lastly, your pH doesn't seem stable if it is dropping below 8.0....

I would look to stabilize pH, Calcium and Alk levels and make sure that the replacement water is mixed to the salinity of the water that you're removing from the tank, keeping things consistent.

 

Not necessarily true. Natural ocean water has a dkh of approximately 7. Therefore, under you theory, the dkh of the ocean water and the reef crystal water should be about the same. Having a dkh of 11, with an appropriate ratio of Ca, can permit faster hard coral growth, but it's not needed for a reef tank to "thrive."

 

Jed, thanks for your input.... It crossed my mind that it could be elemental ....I couldn't find the term in my head to say it the way you did. I have compared params, ocean water to mixed ....params come out the same. I mix the RCs to a salinity of 1.024. My tank maintains 1.026 mostly because of evap ...perhaps about an eight of a gallon per day. I mix supplements with ro and add daily to top off.

Gazog ...thanks for your reply as well. Once I began mixing water, I didn't want to shock the system, changing from natural to a mix. I reasoned a smaller amount more frequently would be less shocking than 8 gallons of mix all at once.

Gab... It is natural local Atlantic water that I've used. As stated, it tests between 1.023 and 1.025. When I mixed the RCs, I mixed it at 1.024. My sal is always consistent. I dont mind it at 026, but I wouldn't want it higher. I supplement a 2 part, daily, with mag as well (manually, dripping at a high flow on the surface)... Away from corals, etc. PH has been unstable, but as minimally as possible. I have strong surface agitation, glass top stays off all day, fans running. The house is closed up most of the time ...south Florida, a mile from the water ...need I elaborate? I open all windows at night a few times per week for several hours and run fans to bring the city smog in...lol. I'm not sure what more to do to stabilize PH. I have strong surface agitation and a good rough ripple draining into a surface skimmer.

Perhaps this seems elementary to some. I'm still learning. Thanks and k+ to the 3 of you for sharing your opinions. Perhaps it's best if I stay with natural sea water for now until I get a sump, rodi auto top off and dosing pumps. Yep, I'm one of "those people" that do it all manually.

 

Yep you are right GM, I have seen that and know that but when it comes to aquariums systems everything I have ever read, seen in videos and heard is 11, I mean even the folks down at the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago run their stuff and between 10 and 11. So I tend to go with the majority.

And I will also say that My corals especially the LPS in particular, look like crap and start to die if it gets below 7 and stay that way for to long so I don't let it.

And gabbagabbawill, I just read in an article somewhere that especially this year, that natural seawater closer to shore has been reaching salinity levels closer to 1.026 to 1.028. And I just assume that is where he is getting his water. Whether this is due to all the heat or what, I have no idea I just know that this is what I read.

 

My LFS get their water 3 miles offshore to elude the crap that tends to wash up to the shoreline. In some areas here, skimmate can be seen at the shoreline.

 

Wow, if your tank was doing well before you switched and you were getting free water from the ocean, then WHY STOP?

I can think of plenty of reasons not to collect water on the shore, but if it's working for you without problems, then maybe you should stick with it...

Then, if you really want to figure this out, I would say that your problems are probably coming from the numbers and consistency... that your pH is dropping below 8 consistently is telling me you have a problem with something. See this link here: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.php about low pH... it's a good read

Maybe your test kits are bad?

 

You're right gab, and that's the conclusion I came to after reading these comments. I'll stick with natural Atlantic water from my LFS. It's far enough off shore to be away from the break. My test kit is an API... Purchased 4 months ago ....I ordered a series of salifert kits from marine depot yesterday ..should be here by Monday.