Switching to RO/DI

You state "RO/DI" in your title but only "RO" in your thread. I hope it is really RO/DI and not just RO since RO only gets you 90-98% of the way there. Also make sure you have a handheld TDS meter such as an HM Digital TDS-3, TDS-4TM or AP-1 or you will have no idea if the RO or RO/DI is functioning or in need of service.

 

Sorry AZ, but I mean RODI. And thank you for the information. I'll get my hands on one as well!

 

I got a TDS-3 on the way. Thank you for that information as I was curious how to know if the rodi is working correctly. I guess my last question is does the brand of the kit really matter? A lot of what I'm reading says a 5 stage is necessary and it comes down to the quality of the filters being used. Thanks to everything lending a helping hand. I'm sure these questions get brought up all the time.

 

I only recommend 3 vendors, Spectrapure, Buckeye Hydro and PurelyH2o. The reason being is they all use only quality sediment and carbon block filters in the correct micron ranges and quantities and in the case of Spectrapure the specially treat all their RO membranes to improve their performance then either batch test or individually hand test them for quality control and also custom blend all their own DI resins.

The number of "stages" doesn't mean much, it is what each stage contains and how ell it protects whatever is downstream of it. A reef quality RO/DI should consist of 4 stages, a 1 micron or smaller sediment filter, a single 1 micron or smaller extruded carbon block, a Dow Filmtec 75 GPD or GE Water 100 GPD RO membrane and a 20 oz vertical refillable DI canister and cartridge. No more, no less. If you want to add value you can add things like an inline pressure gauge, capillary tube flow restrictor the end user can adjust to fit their exact unique water conditions and a DI bypass valve. Things like small horizontal DI filters no matter how many, inline TDS meters and flush kits add no value.

 

Ok awesome. Thank you very much! I appreciate it AZ!