T5s Q&A

I would skip the Glo ballast and just order a retro online. It is cheaper like stated to buy individual components but it is obviously easier to order and assemble a retro "kit". If you want to save money, skip the Ice Cap ballast and go with the appropriate workhorse ballast, it will save you a good amount of $$ BUT will not overdrive the bulbs.
And like stated, a 48" retro is not 48" it is meant for a 48" tank.

Happy lighting!

 

Usually when you see VHO and it is inregards to T5 not T12, it means that the bulbs are being overdriven by for example an Ice Cap ballast.
Yes you can use regular HO bulbs but keep in mind that the spectrum will shift, meaning they will not look the same as on a regular ballast, the k rating typically shifts down meaning more toward the "yellow" end. Also it is even more important to cool the bulbs as the overdriving will create more heat.
Electrical engineers don't always know about electricity!

Happy lighting!

 

Dr. Frag,

I'm running a 6 x 80w T5 custom DIY over my 125. I have been buying bulbs and trying to find the best combo that suits my eye. Question is do you think the combo I found to like have enough PAR for my SPS and possibly a clam in the future?

Front

KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Aquablue Special
ATI Blue +
Giesmann Pure Actinic
GE 6500K
ATI Aquablue Special

Back

I also have 2 more blue + and a Aquablue Special bulb left over from me buying bulbs trying to find the color I like along with keeping up the PAR.

What do you think? Would you change the bulb arrangement? I have the Blue + and the Actinic in the center as they will be my dawn & dusk bulbs, I have 2 bulbs per ballast in sequence 1-2, 3-4, and 5-6.

 

Lighting front, good question. You have this advantage... Your setup is nearly identical to mine so we can use my prior PAR tests as reference....
In dead center on the sand bed my tank has 270 uMol/m2/sec, since most people like to put the clams on the sandbed I would say, using my tank as a reference you could out a clam on the sandbed but it could appreciate more light as well. I essentiall have enough PAR to grow SPS pretty much anywhere in the tank.
Do you grow SPS now?
Your mix is decent, alittle blue heavy.... I would if it was MY tank swap out the fiji purple and the GMAN pure actinic but thats just me. I asked a bunch of VERY experienced T5 experts when planning my build and the blend of lights I have was the mix that all recommended. Granted its not the same blend they ALL recommended verbatum but the closest I could get to all opinions. Essentially I asked what is the highest PAR rated blend that is slightly blue.
I was told-all Giesemann BTW- 3 Aquablue+, 3 Actinic+ and two 6000k. I am thinking of swaping out one of the 6000k though as I would like more blue.
Long story short is this.... If you like that blend try it. You can always change bulbs later... You HAVE enough PAR(or should...) to grow SPS the main concern now is water movement and water quality...

Remember SPS need less PAR than we actually think... 200-300 uMol/m2/sec is enough to grow most SPS well.

Until I can think of a GREAT combo....

Happy lighting!!

 

Right now I have some SPS in my 46 bowfront tank that is lit by a Nova Extreme pro with 2 aquablue, 2 blue +, a fiji purple, and a UVl 75.25 They seem to be growing well under that combo. (orange digi, pink pocillipora, red and green stylophora, and green birdsnest haven't tried acropora yet but I might pick up a frag to see if it will make it)

Cool, I'll just try it and see how the corals react, I'm moving the rest of my reef from the 46 to the 125 this weekend. I have alredy moved all of my softies over to make sure they were okay before I move the LPS and SPS. I don't think water movement or quality is a problem as I have over 5000gph turnover between 4 powerheads and the return and I do water changes bi-weekly, testing quality every few days.

 

Softies for the most part CAN handle more light...well PAR then acros can..... If you can keep the PAR over say 250 uMol/m2/sec then you can keep an acro or similar SPS going strong, again keeping the water quality thing in mind....
I have seen SPS growing in far less PAR than that but the goal of keeping SPS, at least in my eyes is to keep them growing fast and looking good, not slowly growing and browning out.
I can assume, even though the Buddha says never to assume anything, that going off my tank, being so similar, that you will have NO problems with other SPS...

With that said I would try montipora digitatas first, some monti spongodes, monti capricornis and similar SPS first then move on to your acropora formosas and acropora nobilis and so on..... A buddy of mine came over tonight and was shocked at the growth I have..... Even though I have less WPG then him my corals are growing faster... Granted I am a stickler for water quality, but the point is you will most likely have great growth with just about all SPS you choose!!

Happy lighting lightningfront!!

 

Ya, I have an orange montipora digitata, that is growing nicely sprouting off branches everywhere under the NEP on the 46. I just recently picked up the green birdsnest and 2 color variations of stylophora, pocilipora, and tonight I got a moti cap. We'll see how they grow.

I moved everything over to the 125 and am currently running 3 aquablue, 2 actinic plus, and the GE 6500K. I'm pretty happy with the color, I might switch out one of the aquablue for another blue plus and see how much more blue it makes it.

Also with the 6 inches on either end of the tank left over from mounting all the 60" bulbs right in the center I got 2 32w PC retrofits and put them on either end of the tank and thats where I've got most of my sofies, with LPS and SPS in the center of the tank under the stronger lights.

As always thanks for the input Dr.

 

Honestly lightingfront, in the six inch space on both sides of MY tank I have my green birdsnest growing like fire, orange monti caps and a blue millie that is also growing like no ones business.
I don't personally feel the retros are needed, but if you already have them you might as well use them..

Good luck and happy reefing!

 

Going off of cuttinggrass' "bump" thread...here goes... BUMP

 

I am looking into getting the 36" 4x39W Tek 2 T5 High-Output Retrofit Kit or 36" 4x39W Tek Light T5 High-Output Fixture for my 40G breeded. If I get the retro kit and install it in my canopy, will I also need to install fans to cool them? or do the Tek lights run cool enough not to affect my water temp to much? Also, this is the bulb set up i am thinking about getting. What do you think, and what kind of color can I expect?

39W 12000K Aquablue Special T5 HO Fluorescent by ATI
39W True Actinic 03 T5 HO Fluorescent by ATI
39W Pro Color T5 HO Fluorescent by ATI
39W 10000K AquaSun T5 HO Fluorescent by UV Lighting




P.S. I found this site that has a pretty good deal on the tek lights. All there light systems that say w/ bulbs are your choice of bulbs.
http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5...t_Fixture_w!_Bulbs_(Black)_by_Sunlight_Supply

http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5...tput_Retrofit_Kit_w!_Bulbs_by_Sunlight_Supply