Test Kits

Discussion in 'New To The Hobby' started by phorn, Jul 2, 2008.

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  1. phorn

    phorn Bristle Worm

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    I need some recommendations on which kit would be a good starter kit. I have a 30g w/ 10g sump. I'll be using tap water, and will have a FOWLR to start, than add some corals down the road. Is it better to buy a all-in-one kit or get the test separately?
     
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  3. Bogie

    Bogie Snowflake Eel

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    Here's a good one to start with:
    Saltwater Master Liquid Test Kit
    I'd also recommend the Alkalinity or KH Carbonate hardness test to help keep your pH stable, and maybe a copper kita and phosphate test kit to determine if your tap water contains phosphates, which will help feed algae growth.
    Aquarium Water Testing: Aquarium Pharmaceuticals KH/carbonate and Calcium Test Kits
    Aquarium Water Testing: Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Phosphate Test Kit

    All-in-One kits won't always have everything you need, and will sometimes have doubles or things you don't need. You won't need Calcium, Magnesium until you want to start corals.
    The most important "test" is salinity. Most here recommend a refractometer over the hydrometer.
    Here's a good quality one that I bought, now even on sale $41.99. (I paid $45) A hydrometer can be as little as $7, but some people have had their specific gravity off by as much as 0.004, or maybe ~1 ppt, when compared to using a calibrated refractometer.
    Saltwater Aquarium Salinity & Specific Gravity Testing: Portable Refractometer
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2008
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  4. nybatu

    nybatu Bristle Worm

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    before test kit i think you will need ro/di system if you can afford it b/c tap water cost you eventually big problems even though you gotta do fowler, for test kit api is one of the easiest one. i use red sea and api.
     
  5. phorn

    phorn Bristle Worm

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    Cool! Thanks for the quick responses! I've been kicking the RO/DI thing around in my head (ouch it hurts). I'm not sure I have the room to store the water. I could store it, but then getting to it would be a problem (have to move some stuff all the time). SO that would mean more plumbing...and an auto top off system...but then I have to get to it to do water changes...etc...etc...Hey, Bogie you don't use RO/DI do you? Any problems without it?
     
  6. Bogie

    Bogie Snowflake Eel

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    No problems here really, but I live in Waterbury, Ct, which had it's whole public water treatment system re-done within the last 7-8 years (or so I've heard). The city's known for having some of the best quality water. I do have trace amounts of phosphates, for which I use a phosphate remover inside my canister filter. No problems with my water within the 6 months my tank has been running - and that's no track record. I tried to win that contest for the RO/DI, but have been thinking about buying one recently.

    But your water is completely different. Is it city or well water? Some cities will test your water for free if you bring them a sample. Also, a good LFS will test your water samples for the basic stuff, but you really want to be self dependent and have your own test kits.
     
  7. Reeron

    Reeron Blue Ringed Angel

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    I'd recommend those test kits too, as I use all of those exact ones myself. In addition, I use the Red Sea Magnesium test kit.
    Aquarium Water Quality & Testing: Red Sea Magnesium Test Lab
     
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  9. phorn

    phorn Bristle Worm

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    "But your water is completely different. Is it city or well water? Some cities will test your water for free if you bring them a sample. Also, a good LFS will test your water samples for the basic stuff, but you really want to be self dependent and have your own test kit"

    Good point. I'll look into some more. Maybe better to invest in an RO system now than have problems later. I guess my problem is I'm not familiar with how they're set up. Storing the water, auto shut off when the tanks are full (can they do that?) and I have pretty limited space. I guess while I'm on it, I'd like your opinion there too. (If you don't mind) :)
     
  10. Bogie

    Bogie Snowflake Eel

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    I have the same concerns that you do about buying an RO/DI. I can handle hooking up an RO/DI system. But I don't have a sump, and regardless I don't want any RO/DI water supply lines running from the RO/DI to my tank with the cabinet door open (plus wife would kill me for having to look at that). My tanks is a 55 gal, so the max water change I do is under 10 gallons. And I wouldn't easily be able to keep a 20-28 gallon trash pail under my cabinet and be able to easily move it out when it's got 10 gallons of water in it :-/.

    So for now, I'm sticking to what I do:
    Siphon 4-5 gallons, dump it, repeat.
    Mix 4-5 gallons of tank temperature salt water in a bucket in my sink, add to tank, repeat.
    Test water parameters and add any needed calcium, magnesium, and Arm & Hammer or Borax ;D.


    ^^ I use Red Sea for the Mag test too, since I couldn't find an API one.
     
  11. Reeron

    Reeron Blue Ringed Angel

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    I'm looking at an ro unit from Lowes. For ease of installation, it can't be beat. All necessary parts are included and the installation instructions are pretty straight-forward. It also includes a 2 gallon storage tank and is rated at 24gpd. I keep about 20 empty water containers (one gallon each) in my basement, so I'll use those (filling a couple of them up each day until they are all full- this will allow me to have enough water on hand at all times). I'm going to install it in my basement, then I only have to run the one line (from the storage tank) to my sink (it comes with the faucet for sink hook up). Later on, when I get enough money saved, I'll buy a larger 14 gallon storage tank. Will be very easy to replace it as it's in the basement (so no space limitations).

    It will cost me $168 to buy the complete unit. Replacement membranes run $49 and replacement filters (two total) run $38. To build my own will cost about $150 more, so even though the filters are more expensive, I figure it will break even after about 5-6 years. Replacement filters, for some of the ro units that I've looked at online, run about $26 and replacement membranes run about $36-$55 (average about $45). After that it will cost me about $28 more a year to run it, but it's so easy (and complete), that it's hard to pass on. Having had no experience installing one, this would be a good choice.

    Something to think about.
     
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  12. phorn

    phorn Bristle Worm

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    From what I've seen of how they install, its not much different from installing an ice maker line from the 'fridge to a cold water supply line under the sink. Just attach a bracket and turn the screw that taps and seals into the brass pipe. I can handle that part. I think the cost is justifiable from what I've seen. The fact that you found the stuff at Lowe's is cool...I'd rather pay money in person and walk away with a new membrane than have to order it and wait. This unit comes with a storage tank? How are you going to get the water from the tank to the faucet? A pump? Or is it pressurized so how? Oh yeah, and how about a link to the unit you're looking at? Ok. Thats it. No more questions. ;D