the official ECOBAK thread...

Discussion in 'Warner Marine' started by Jon Warner, Feb 3, 2011.

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  1. Thatgrimguy

    Thatgrimguy Flying Squid

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    My experience has been very limited. But the one person I know using it likes it so far. His tank is a 330g and it's keeping his po4 untraceable on a hanna ppm meter for over a month, where HC gfo was about 3 weeks. This is FAR from scientific though. He's been running it for about 90 days I believe.

    I'm currently experimenting with the brightwell xport p04... I typically disdain brightwell products. But this product not having to be fluidized drew me in. I'm only a week in so far on my first time to use it though.
     
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  3. gcarroll

    gcarroll Zoanthid

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    What I read is that it is most likely a polymer coater GFO. Their claims to absorb 4x the phosphate are most likely computed by adding up the total phosphate removed via regeneration. If it is GFO, this would explain why it outperforms HC versions of GFO. IME, HC GFO will remove more phosphate overall yet regular GFO will absorb what it will hold much quicker. Some claim that it is not good to eliminate phophate completly so in those cases HC might be the best choice. It usually won't take it to complete 0 but will hold it at low levels for a much longer time.

    Keep in mind that this is my speculation based on my experiences.
     
  4. gcarroll

    gcarroll Zoanthid

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    Also the only reason GFO needs to be fluidized is so that it does not clump. Warner Marine's regular Phosar does not clum even when not fluidized. It's pellet shape deters clumping.
     
  5. Thatgrimguy

    Thatgrimguy Flying Squid

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    That's what I understood as well. Polymer based. There are so many variables that could have affected the extremely unscientific tests by the reefer in my club. So who knows.. He may be using a higher equivalent than he was of the HC GFO as well....

    Did you see this article PO4x4 phosphate testimonial from John & Cam’s Bali Reef, a 2500 gallon UK reef aquarium

    I'm always skeptical when someone claims to reinvent the wheel. But I was getting excited about this one... time will tell.
     
  6. Toallhisdoom

    Toallhisdoom Dragon Wrasse

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    quick questions, if i have a 100gal tank, would it be a good idea to start with half the recommended dose? let the bacteria get to a sustained level, then add the other half? this way there isn't an abundance of bacteria then a die off? or would that still happen even with half the dose?

    I am trying to read all this but got to about page 9 and just my mind is going fuzzy..haha
     
  7. Jon Warner

    Jon Warner 3reef Sponsor

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    take the 500 ml jar and divide it into 1/3 or 1/4's... add one portion a week for 3-4 weeks and you will be good to go.
     
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  9. Toallhisdoom

    Toallhisdoom Dragon Wrasse

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    Ok now is there anything i should be carefull of? all i have now is some rox carbon in a bag and a skimmer and fuge. Any way using this could harm my system?

    Am going to be doing the DIY gatorade bottle reactor. I would assume i can just throw it in that, going to do one for this, and one for my carbon.
     
  10. gcarroll

    gcarroll Zoanthid

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    If you don't currently dose a carbon source, I would be far more conservative. Maybe 25%. The higher the nitrates and phosphates are in your tank the more chance for a bacterial bloom. Remember, nothing good in this hobby happens fast so take your time.
     
  11. Toallhisdoom

    Toallhisdoom Dragon Wrasse

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    Well my nitrates are at 0 and phos at 0. so?
     
  12. Thatgrimguy

    Thatgrimguy Flying Squid

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    ON what test kit, how old is the test kit. I seriously seriously doubt this is accurate.