The Right RO/DI Unit for me..

So i got my new 90 gallon reef ready tank. I have bought sand and salt and a 30 gallon tank for a sump. Im building a stand in a couple of weeks. Other than an few smaller supplies im almost ready to get tank going.

Water is the next thing im looking at. I have waited this long because there have been alternatives like Culligan and Glacier Water units featuring RO water or simply buying my LFS 6-stage RO/DI water.

I think having my own unit will pay for itself in gas trips and aggrevation so I need to know what should i look for in an RO Unit. There are alot of them out there with many bells and whistles. I live in an apartment complex. What RO/DI unit is right for me...

Thanx in advance for all your help..

 

what size ro-di unit

50-100gpd would be fine IMO

 

A 75gpd or a 150gpd unit. They have a 98% rejection rate. Others have a 90% or lower. Whats that mean? The higher the rejection rate, the less the DI has to handle. For what you would pay for a 50gpd unit, you can buy the 75gpd unit and its cheaper to run long term because of the lower cost of DI versus RO membranes.

 

can you show me some examples....

What about the ro/di units on ebay ? can they be trusted?

 

One Dumm Hikk is none of the above.

A higher rejection rate means a higher quality water output. I'm less concerned about the GPD figure, because as I use mine for autotopoff, and water changes, I don't have the need for more than a few gallons daily on average. I think mine produces 5 gallons in 75 minutes. It's a 75 GPD unit. A 150 GPD unit was the same price and for the reasons outlined above, I opted for the lower production membrane.

I got the Typhoon 5 Stage RO/DI from airwaterice.com. It's a fine product for $149. I recommend it.

 

a link to the typhoon please?

 

Out of the RO membrane, not out of the DI. Post DI water should be 0 TDS. The main thing the rejection rate does is purer drinking water (If you use it for drinking water) and less *useage of the DI resin*. I wouldn't want anybody to read that and think that one unit produces "higher quality" RO/DI water than another because of membrane rejection rate when its not true. The difference is in how it gets to 0 TDS but 0 TDS is 0 TDS.

Edit: Changed it to DI resin, not the RO membrane.

 

The way i understood it was the if the rejection rate of the ro membrane is higher, that means that di resin has less to filter out to produce a 0 tds result. THAT MEANS THE RESIN, which is more expensive i believe than the RO Membrane, lasts longer.

 

link

http://airwaterice.com

 

I got a 5-stage Compact Reefkeeper unit from AirWaterIce a 2 1/2 years ago. Changed the filters over a year ago and I'm still getting only 2ppm total disolved solids (measured just last week). It makes about 2-3 gallons per hour. Here is the link:
Aquarium Water | Reverse Osmosis | RODI Water | ReefKeeper Water | Compact 75 GPD Reefkeeper RODI